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18 January 2016 at 12:59 am #133974
Joinery timber is always 20% moisture content or dryer. Furniture timber is even dryer.
18 January 2016 at 12:58 am #133973The reverse is also true, if it’s too dry and the environment it’s supposed to live in is more moist it can lead to glue joint failure over time.
I would say it’s certainly prudent to wait the 14days (or not). It’s not essential, I don’t secondary season anything that’s a shop project. But if I lived in a rather damp country and had kiln dried timber I think I would let them settle in the workshop first.
Hope that helps! If your wood was stored in a similar environment to your workshop (like if it’s under shelter but in an unheated area like a shed or garage, it will be fine) you need not secondary season.
16 January 2016 at 2:44 pm #133937I would use a glue with a slow set time it will make it easier to manoeuvre the pieces of timber into alignment.
Secondary seasoning normally takes 14-20 days to ac climate to its new surroundings. I wouldn’t make a workbench out of anything with a moisture content of 20% or less. I think it should be okay, by the time you’ve laminated everything and surface planed it flush flat and square… it should be okay!
12 January 2016 at 7:30 pm #133861Very nice! It’s true that a lot of the time machine work makes things faster. But not all the time. When I worked in Joinery shops making windows I hand planed my stock to make it smooth and did all my joinery by hand.
The ironic thing was that everyone had their window completed in two days. I also had mine completed in two days. They may have seemed to be going faster but spent so long setting up machines for tasks and sanding out planer marks on assembled joinery that we finished at the same time. Sometimes, on notoriously bad woods for tear out like Sapele I would finish days ahead of others.
Besides, they may have made fun of me at first… But after a few months it was no longer a point of argument whose work was superior in both looks and functionality. That said, did I thicknesser planer all my of my wood? Yes! Did I use the table saw to dimension my stock? Yes! I still do to this day but the machines will never be as good as me at joinery, they won’t be better than you either… But they will be better than the people you work with because they can’t do it without the machines!
I get a lot of work these days re-making things that other joinery have made with pure machinery that haven’t lasted the test of time!
11 January 2016 at 11:04 am #133797Aw man! Makes me want to move back to Sweden!
Amazingly if I sold my house here I could buy two or three houses in Sweden don’t ask me why UK property is worth so much but apparently it is… Unfortunately my wife is, as she puts it “allergic to the cold” haha
I suppose I just miss that huge barn workshop and the super tall ceilings…………
10 January 2016 at 9:31 pm #133783It wasn’t my intention to correct anyone… I used to work as a timmerman in jönköping and way up in norrland building laboratories etc. Although I haven’t spoken swedish in years…
all the stormproof windows we made indeed had bridle joints and then passed through a molding machine to create the rebate for the frame. Although the timber we used was all heat treated and regularized and tantalized. It’s been my experience that the rest of the world could learn a lot about scandinavian joinery… Very long lasting and very little maintenance.
A very beautiful country!
- This reply was modified 8 years, 3 months ago by MaxWheeler.
10 January 2016 at 8:15 pm #133777Sorry for multiple posting but apparently my images are too large for one single post…
A good quality frame will normally have a hardwood cill because that’s almost always the first thing to rot away.
It’s also good practice to mitre corners Because it’s helps in keeping the frame square long term and reduces the temptation to create masons miters on profiled stock. Although that normally involves making the groove / rebate / rabbet once the frame is already assembled.
Well, I hope this helps
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You must be logged in to view attached files.10 January 2016 at 8:12 pm #133774It’s an excellent idea to make a full scale drawing and mark your parts from it for accuracy.
The mortise is laid out in pencil and you can see that there is a good portion of timber left stopping the joint from ever slipping apart. Even if the frame is against masonry all around it can still shrink and leave gaps and fail. Once moisture enters a joint it’s almost game over.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.10 January 2016 at 8:09 pm #133771What I’m about to say is from my own experience and my only reference is years of experience on the job… That said, I’m not assuming it’s the best way because how could I possibly ever know that!
Bridle joints for windows and door frames do not last the test of time! A good method that will last for many many years is a haunched mortise and tenon joint. I get almost all of my business these days replacing ten to twenty year old storm proof softwood windows where the bridle joint has failed and the bottom of the windows has quite literally fallen out. A mortise tenon will last for many many many more years even with severe neglect.
For door frames the joint that shows signs of a true craftsman is one that I have put in a thrown together pic, just screwed and glued after that and lasts for many years without gaps appearing in the head. The other picture is of the a window “draft design” that I was paid to build by someone who insisted on that design. They paid me again 11 years later to make brand new windows because some of the joints had started to fail.
Food for thought, or maybe I’m just losing my grip on reality lol
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You must be logged in to view attached files.2 January 2016 at 11:52 pm #133581I loved the walking canes when he said ‘it’s better to leave it a bit long. You can’t plait sawdust’ lol
2 January 2016 at 10:46 pm #133579Forgot to mention the price was for sapele and it’s kiln dried not air dried.
I have found that the more I use sawmills the better the prices I get… I guess it’s because I have an addiction to buying timber lol
2 January 2016 at 10:44 pm #133577I use a sawmill called east bros and for for this particular cutting list I was quoted 148.51 including VAT but I pick it up myself.
My boards are straight off the bandsawn and 28mm thick and I plane them down by machine and finish it with a smoothing plane.
Another good sawmill is yandles sawmill somewhere in somerset… they quote me normally 20% higher than anyone else but they also have self selection if you go in person where boards have a price tag and if they have defects you know you can work around it can be astronomically cheaper. They also do 20% off all wood in stock when they host events which is usually every quarter of a year.
I’ve used vastern timber based in Wootton basset and iWood online retailers. They are okay and the timber has been okay although I have only bought PAR oak from them for secular work and usually a few grands worth at any given time.
Another good source of occasional timber (but not imported hardwoods) Is from local tree surgeons.
I’ve saved a lot of cash from collecting green logs/trees and sawing them myself with a chainsaw mill which I seldom use and cost me 300 quid all in… that against what I’ve saved in beautiful English grown hardwoods was a steal….
Hope this helps…
19 December 2015 at 10:36 am #133281This so awesome I’m surprised nobody commented! Brilliant stuff I bet you couldn’t wait to get some beer and try it out haha!
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