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6 September 2022 at 10:55 pm #772870
Hi Colin, that’s a clever adaptation, and of course grooving for drawers is such a common thing it makes sense to have a dedicated plane for it.
My wooden rebate plane pictured above has two nail holes in the base, where someone obviously attached a fence. Easier to make a neat job of the fence attachment on a grooving plane, since the fence registers to the large surface area on the side of the plane.
How to you like the quality of the Pinie planes btw?
Cheers, Andrew
6 September 2022 at 10:49 pm #772867Hey Julio, really sorry to hear about your fall, hope you make a swift recovery and can get back to woodworking soon.
Really interesting about the Holm Oak used by Spanish planemakers! I guess they leave it to season well in oversized blanks before making the planes. Good for repeat business if they don’t last forever 😉 I’ve wondered if the very long life of quality hand tools was a negative for the makers – people never need to replace the tools!
I refurbished my skew rebate plane this week – pic attached. It’s so much lighter to use than my Stanley 78, really nice. The skew pulls it into the corner of the rebate, and also makes the lovely shavings come out cleanly to the side.
I had to plane the sides and base flat as it was so worn from use – a good sign that it was a useful and much-used tool. Attached is an image of the rebates I made with it last night, for a picture frame. It really is a pleasure to use such a plane, highly recommended.
Regards, Andrew
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You must be logged in to view attached files.25 August 2022 at 2:37 pm #771644Great job, looks awesome and surely very satisfying! I have a wooden skew rebate in the mail so hoping I get as good a result.
Very unusual and attractive grain in that timber, any idea what species of wood?
Cheers, Andrew
5 May 2021 at 9:50 am #71196212 tpi is quite coarse for dovetails. You could recut at 16 if it turns out to be an issue. Handy in imperial: 1/16” spacings obvs.
If so I recommend the vallorbe/grobet needle files, a suggestion I got from Blackburn Tools’ website, theyre excelllent. Havent used them to retooth, but I find them a fair bit better than Bahco 4” xx slims for my dovetail saws.
2 May 2021 at 1:08 pm #711626Thanks Julio and Ken!
Btw realised reading that I meant PPI not TPI in my message above, oops.
I think you’re both right, coarser teeth will be more useful for ripping. I’ll probably go 6 ppi as I mostly rip 3/4” stock.
23 April 2021 at 9:37 am #710380Very nice shaping there Geoff!
You might need a couple more bolts though?! 😉
How did you get the rivets off?
On my list of to dos.
Cheers, Andy
23 April 2021 at 9:29 am #710379Nice, all look great condition! May I ask what you paid for the routers, as I’m considering a second one? I’m based in Sydney btw. Cheers, Andy
26 March 2021 at 11:39 am #706878Those are great Rob, nice one. The painted finish looks striking and really makes the tools “pop”!
26 March 2021 at 11:31 am #706875I think you could consider stoning the two sides of this errant Veritas dovetail saw. IF the problem is too much set that can help a lot, by reducing it.
It aslo cleans burrs on the outside edges of teeth that may have been left from manufacture or your own filing, thereby reducing ripping on the outcut. Worth remembering the outcut side should always be the less seen side of your piece btw, as Paul teaches.
Too much set results in an overwide kerf, which gives the sawplate space to jiggle from side to side and make the cut wander. It also will lead to slower cutting, which also decreases accuracy and steaightness of ripping.
To stone you just get a fine sharpening stone and run it from heel to toe along the side of the teeth and the last 5mm of the saw plate. Lie the plate flat on a bench, push the stone flat down on it, and make one or two passes. Minimise the amount of plate you touch as it can scratch, and use light machine oil to lubricate. You could put a sheet of paper on the plate if youre worried, I dont bother. Do this equally on both sides, or if your cut always veers one way do more stoning on that side (veers to right => stone right). Test the saw (by sawing!) every couple of passes, as you don’t want to take too much set off as dovetail saws are a PITA to reset.
It’s meant to be a good saw, you should be able to get it working with perseverence, and you’ll learn more and be a better woodworker for it, compared to just plunking down dollars for a new saw.
Actually one caveat here is that 14 tpi is good for dovetails down to about 3/8” (10mm) thick timber. That’s because each tooth is a touch over 1/16” and you want at least 6 teeth in your workpiece. If you’re working in 1/4” thick timber … yes, you probably need a finer saw, maybe a 20 tpi gents.
Good luck!
- This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by Andrew Sinclair. Reason: fat finger typos
26 March 2021 at 11:08 am #706873Jeez with that quantity I’d try and get access to a band saw and/or planer and get a big pile tidied up. Partly cos thats a lot of space taken up until you use some of it.
If the boards are only 12-18” long I might be tempted to try a scrub plane if you want to get 3/4” out of them and you want to start with only one or two boxes. Would be good for your planing technique … and a good workout! Depends how hard and dry they are I guess.
3 June 2020 at 11:13 pm #664025I’d be a plus 1 for that! It seems a common form of construction that is missing from WWMC. I always look at Paul’s tool storage base units in the older videos and wonder how they’re done!
I believe he has written a kind blog post in tesponse to a query, detailing the method and/or dimensions, but it’s not quite enough for someone like me. Perhaps the eco bin project captures much of the technology involved – it’s a similar concept.
Cheers, Andrew
- This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by Andrew Sinclair. Reason: Spelling
10 May 2020 at 9:13 am #660743The files are half the battle. Vallorbe / Glardon needle files are the finest I’ve found, and make 16tpi teeth feel large. Whether they’re fine enough for 25tpi I don’t know. I’m pretty sure 20tpi is as fine as my eyes could go without magnification!
Agree rip teeth all the way finer than 12tpi.
Good luck, and do report back!
9 May 2020 at 5:57 am #660621Looks great! What dimensions did you go for?
This is defnitely on my “to do” list!
1 May 2020 at 4:49 am #659473Nice details Larry, thanks!
You are a bit harsh on the camellia oil I think. Just because some manufacturers/suppliers abuse loopholes in regulation should not tarnish the raw product. Camellia oil can be extracted directly from the seeds of the camellia tree, and this has been done traditionally in Japan and China for centuries. No petroleum products need be involved. A nice photo essay on the process is at
29 April 2020 at 12:40 pm #659140Nice one, lovely timber.
Wonder if the wood was overly dry and thus more prone to splitting. Either due to kiln drying or leaving in the sun or something.
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