1. Paul, that was a very interesting approach to sculpting the seat using the bandsaw. Still waiting on my gouge (backordered) so I will most likely use my bandsaw in the same manner. That bandsaw blade appeared to be about a ¼” width. Is that correct or would you recommend a wider or narrower blade? Excellent video to watch on this cold Christmas Day.
    Thanks and Happy Holidays to all members out there!

  2. After watching this video for the second time ( Grandkids are napping ) I may start with ( 2 ) I do own a Bandsaw and #7 sweep gouge so I could do one of each. This will be great practice.

    Thanks again I really am enjoying this !


  3. first job tomorrow get the wrapping off my new gouge and get to work on a seat thanks for your efforts, you and the team have pulled out all the stops this year , i hope your sound person has recovered from that screaming bandsaw.

      1. It is surprising how you can train your eye to see contrast. Also remember that because f grain pattern variation, sometimes the depth can look off even though it measures perfectly. That’s because the eye is deceived. I would still trust my eye right from the get-go and train myself to work more intuitively. We live in a world of constant governance because of the computer language and life. It’s nice to enter realms of creative freedom whenever we can I think.

        1. Thanks for the reply Paul. My gut feeling was to just do it. It is surprising how accurate the eye, and touch for that matter, can be. It is very liberating to throw off the constraints of the machined world and work in the world of the artisan.

    1. No I don’t, although we did do this when we made the cello, to get the rough depth. But that was scary because thongs can go wrong with that. I remember one time the wood was pulled up the but because there was no way we could set a depth stop on so variable a depth. The be=it went all the way through on that occasion.

  4. Hi Paul, can you please tell me more about the gouge, is it a #7 (straight) 35mm (or what size)? In Italy I can get Stubai tools (up to 40 mm) or a Two Cerries (but with a #7 cut not more than 20 mm, and seems to small). Thank you.

    1. I think it is much easier to work with a wider gouge than a narrower one though of course a narrower one will work. Going too wide means more effort per cut so up to 40mm would be max for this work i think. Don’t forget it doesn’t have to be a #7 either, you could to as low as a #3. The problem though is the limited functionality in that a #3 is not much good for spoons and such. Just trying to economise a bit and make the tool work for other things when I say use a #7.
      You can also use a bent gouge for this only the mallet blows will feel a little less positive.

  5. Around 49′ 45″, Paul says, “Watch now, this is technique,” but I’m not sure what he was pointing out. Was it establishing a first pass and then broadening it with further passes? Was it popping in from the edge like you do for a housing dado and then leveling and working across? Just seeing the rhythm of work is the key thing, but I was wondering what others pulled out of that section.

  6. Best yet,I have never had the courage until today to attempt carving a chair set. Your technique and demonstration has opening a new door, and another chapter into woodworking for me.
    So grateful for this opportunity to learn from the Real woodworker.
    Thanks so much

  7. Howdy,

    I’ve seen a lot videos about woodworking, but Paul’s are the best. He not only depicts every detail and step, but gives the viewer the confidence to try the same techniques. I am having more fun woodworking than ever! Thanks for the terrific series.

    Mike Corley

  8. You mention leaving the gouge marks in as one option for a finish, for “character” or “authenticity” or whatever people feel it brings. Could you go a little more into what the vernacular is in this area? It seems like changing the direction of the gouging motion too much would clash, as would having the final gouge marks too unevenly spaced. What kinds of things go into making this style look just right?

  9. Paul,
    What are the 2 model numbers of the spokeshaves that you were using on this project? I am looking on Ebay and there are a number of different models available.
    Thanks much for the quality of the video that’s being shot and and more importantly the content that you are providing is absolutely amazing.

  10. I just tried my first time using the bandsaw to carve this seat… Wow, that was a total cluster… Gonna try to salvage it, but will most likely have to start over and use a gouge.

  11. Paul- First of all, thank you for the wonderful and informative videos. Your expertise is obvious and you are human enough to even show your mistakes. These are also a lesson well taught.
    You had mentioned giving use a video on how to make the compass plane. It would be very helpful if this was done so we who want to learn more on tool making and do not have the money to go out and buy the very expensive optional tools to get the result can make the tool for this and other future projects.
    Thanks Paul and the group.

  12. I have been looking for the video on how to make the hand plane with the curved bottom. Can some one point me to that video? I found where Paul cuts out the blanks but it stopped there. Thanks for all the great videos Paul and team!

  13. I have an “uncategorized” Premium membership. I would love to watch this, and I thought that my membership qualified me to watch it. But when I try to watch it I get a message that this is an episode in a paid series and that I need to “upgrade” my membership in order to watch it.

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