Bench Stool: Episode 6

Posted 1 January 2014

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In this final episode, Paul takes us through some of the refinements that can be made to the seat, including an optional shaped upstand at the back of the seat. He finishes off by showing how to secure the top to the legs of the bench stool.

Previous: Bench Stool: Episode 5

29 Comments

  2. This has been a really good series and this is defiantly on my short list to make. I guess maybe I need to invest in a #151 spokeshave, I do have and use a #51,#52, and #53. I can also see the hatchet as a great shop tool.

    Thanks Paul and crew “Happy New Year ” !

    Steve

    1. Hi David,
      We are in the process of filming that very process. We will be using milk paint, which is a good option. I just checked with Paul, and this is what he said about using shellac as a sanding sealer: “It seals off the soak-in and reduces grain raising too. Gives a smoother start for the paint because there is less drag and also easier to apply the paint. But you must sand first otherwise there is no tooth.”
      Hope that helps, Phil

  8. Thanks for this series. What a great project. I do hope that you plan to show us how to make that small radius plane so that we can work the bottom of the seat as you did. I love making various tools and that looks like a great one. Again, thanks and Happy New Year!!

  11. A stool is a much needed addition to my shop, so I’m very grateful for this series! The house is also in need of a set of stools, so after I build my first shop stool and work out the kinks, I will definitely move on to some house hold furnishings. Thanks again, looking forward to a great new year of projects!

  13. Paul,

    I am sure you covered this many times before and it just hasn’t soaked into my thick head. When you were forming the curve for the back of the seat you did some shaping with a chisel bevel down and then later you rounded the edges and used the bevel up. I know this is class one information but can you point me to a answer for why you addressed the cuts with 2 different chisel edges. It would help clear my head. I am old and slow sometimes. Was it because of the direction of the cut? Concave on the first part so bevel down and the other was convex so bevel up. I know it can’t be that simple but I need to understands…was it simple preference Thanks, I really enjoy these classes and look forward to learning more tools.

  14. I thought this was a great project. I am delighted to be learning how to get the compound angles. Afterwards to keep them consistent throughout the stool makes sense. Now it is time to go put the knowledge into action. Let’s make a bench stool.

    Thanks

  15. Hi Paul,
    I’m just curious. I recently finished a dovetail box and the top was ever-so-slightly dimpled by some debris on my bench. I scraped out the dimple with a card scraper and it felt perfectly smooth, but I could still see the flaw left from the compressed fibers. Will this ever reveal itself later as the fibers decompress? I think if I went deep enough past the flaw it would be fine, but I barely removed it as I did not want to remove too much material.

    Thank you for sharing your accumulated skills. It truly is a legacy given to us from your teachers through you to us.

  16. Having recently joined the Master Class Series, I just finished watching the bench tool series. Very nicely done. I look forward to watching more videos in the Master Class.
    Many thanks for the fine wood crafting and production work.

  17. In any of the projects, does Paul show how he levels the feet to the floor, especially when they’ve already been shaped? Or did I miss that step in this project someplace?

  18. I remember watching one, but, I can not find it now. It is simple.
    1. find a flat and level surface that the chair can sit on.
    2. put the chair on that surface.
    3. level the seat of the chair by shimming one of more of the legs.
    4. find the leg that has the most gap between it and the surface.
    5. measure that gap.
    6. set a compass/dividers to that distance
    7. mark all the legs with a line that distance up from the surface. be sure to go all the way around the leg.
    8. cut to the line.
    DONE.

    The shortest leg, ie the one you measure for the gap, should have a line that just touches the end at some point on that leg.

  21. After watching literally hundreds of hours of Paul’s videos, and noting his distaste for particle board and MDF, it is refreshing to see a valuable tool made from glued sawdust. Hooray! Wonderful project using simple tools available to anyone at a reasonable price. Kudos Mr. Sellers

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