1. Probably a cross cut. You can use a rip cut with fine teeth, but this is quite a lot of wood to cut through, so slightly larger teeth are useful. When you go for larger teeth (less than 10tpi), a crosscut specific saw is useful.

    1. That’s funny. My wife does handmade quilts, and I always kidded her about cutting apart perfectly good fabric only to sew it back together. Than I made my first cutting board a few years back. She looked at it and said “It’s pretty, but all you did was cut apart a bunch of wood and glue it back together”. Touche!

  1. I like this project, not to say the other projects are not, this one to me looks very smart and a nice design. It’s going to keep me busy for a few weeks when I get started.

    Thank you Paul and Team.

      1. So the foot angle is calculated by measuring up 33? Somehow I messed up the angle or it was the 26. My foot angle was allowing the wall to be flat. I had not cut the shelves yet, so regrouped and changed the foot angle and used it for my shelves. It turned out fine.

  2. I like the look of this project – particularly the way the front curve in the upright matches the front curve of Paul’s relaxed muscle!

    (And my wife laughs at me every time she realises I’m watching a man saw wood!)

  3. Cutting the long curves with a hand rip saw surely provides good cardio, and it may be easier to shoot that way too, but is there a technical reason for not using the band saw for that? Oh, I just realized that the venue is different from previous videos, so maybe the bandsaw is not in this shop and maybe that is the reason as well.

    Either way, since I don’t have a scrub plane yet, it might be easier to get a fair cut with a band saw that needs less cleanup. Thats why I ask.

    1. I think that Paul wants to show that you can do it without the need for a band saw – part of his philosophy of just look what you can achieve with a small number of hand tools…

      So to answer your question there is no technical reason why you shouldn’t use a band saw if you have one.

    2. Hi Gordon,

      Thank you for your question, I passed this on to Paul and his response is below:

      We always lean towards the use of hand tools and less towards the use of machines because the majority of our audience will have hand tools and not machines.

      Kind Regards,

  4. Fabulous video to give me a positive end to an awful week with Coronavirus devastating so many lives, largely though increased anxiety.
    Thanks for such a detailed look at how to make the project which has already got me thinking that I should do this instead of making another Table saw-cut MDF version for my grandson as requested by his parents.

    BTW, what should we use the 3rd thin piece of off-cut for after the cutting board and 2 spoons? Perhaps a “spurtle?”

    1. Henry Disston made at least three types of handsaws designed to cut curves. The ships saw is just one, and it probably cut the largest arc. It had a closed handles. The other saws for cutting curves had open handles.

      Disston made a saw they marketed as a jointers saw, which looked a bit like a tenon saw with a 4” wide plate Without the back. The curves you could cut with that saw are pretty large arc also the saw was really a panel saw for the affluent woodworker

      Next in line was a saw called a table saw which was maybe 4” wide by the handle and 2” wide by the tip which was made to cut, well, circular tables. This is not to be confused with the motorized loud whirly thing Made by firms like delta, powermatic, and Sawstop.

      for even tighter curves is the compass saw which comes to a point has a somewhat thicker plate than other saws to stiffen it, and came in rip and crosscut variants. You really need both if you want to cut circles with it. People nowadays mistakenly call a compass saw a keyhole saw. That’s the next saw down the line. A compass saw is much to large and cumbersome to cut keyholes.

      finally, there was the keyhole saw, which was small, thin, and cut on the pull stroke. This saw was called a pad saw if you could retract the blade into the handle to make it shorter. You might want to just cut the keyhole on one side of the lock mortise, and you might want to turn the blade around for a cleaner cut if the keyhole wasn’t covered by an escutcheon.


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