1. You often mention something along the lines of “You are a Software Engineer”, and I have to tell you: I am a software engineer. I sit as a desk for 9-10 hours working as fast as possible trying to meet deadlines. When you said you want us to slow down and enjoy the process, that couldn’t have been said more directly to me. I find it therapeutic to go out to my garage and just take my time and enjoy the process of doing something like true-ing up stock. It is just simply relaxing.

    1. Window’s systems LOL. I started watching Paul because he is so passionate, got things done and done right. But he’s too inspiring for me to just sit there, so I had to start making things. Now I relax and get my exercise.

  2. Paul I really enjoyed this episode on tapering the legs. I really liked that jig and think that is the way to go, would you mind sharing some of the construction details ?

    Thanks again for everything you do !


  3. Alright… I’ll admit it….. Around the 18 minute mark when he looked into the camera and smiled….. I smiled back. I smiled with genuine appreciation.
    I love this series.

  4. Great project Paul. The jig has shown a wonderful aspect of how to get perfect accuracy each time. Right off I started thinking how I could make the sides adjustable for thicker applications or thinner if wanted. Maybe its better to just make dedicated jigs for each application. You got my mind spinning again. I see tables beside every chair in my house. Thank you to you and the team.

  5. Paul: I’m curious. Furniture assembled with hide glue, as this one was, can be later taken apart to discover the how and why, as you have done. Today glues don’t allow for this. Does this mean our craftsmanship will be a mystery years from now?

    1. Hello Chris,
      There are ways to take apart furniture with modern glues, it is just not as easily done as with hide glue. Paul has in the past used vinegar to soften PVA when taking pieces apart, but there are no guarantees, especially when taking apart tight joints.
      All the best, Phil

  6. An inspiring video, as always, Paul!

    I’ve made your jig and it works great (on some test pieces of pine!)

    However, before I start on my sapele legs, I was wondering: what happens if you are planing against the grain when the leg is in the jig? Do you just put a stop block on the other end of the jig and plane the other way?


  7. Paul
    Great episode. Would you be able to speak a little further about the details of the tapering jig, i.e. wood type used, dimensions (I would guess they are same as finished taper)?
    You make it look so easy, simple, but talking more about it goes a long way to continuing our already increasing confidence.
    Wonderful, thanks,

  8. Interesting to see that Paul used a spiral notebook and had some loose leave pages. On the YouTube videos of his journals they where all hardbound. Not a big issue but I was thinking that hardbound was better for the long term.

  9. I know this is a 3 year old video and perhaps Mr Sellers addresses this in later sections, but…

    To me, the numbering system used to number the legs matching up with the apron do not look like knife marks, but rather, looks much like light chisel taps. For example, the close up of the III (3) and the Ii (2) looks like they were made with a 3/8 chisel indent rather than a knife.

    This would also be in line with the ‘economy of movement’ of the craftsman as he joined the apron to the legs. He would be finishing the fitment of the legs to the apron with a mortise chisel and could make a short tap, tap, tap once he was satisfied with the fit rather than to put the chisel down and pick up a knife to ‘carve’ a III.

    In fact, this is similar to the system i use to match tenons to mortises… a simple tap of the chisel to make an X, a Y and a Z.

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