Sellers Home Wardrobe: Episode 3
Posted 28 June 2023
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In this episode, Paul walks you through what is a more unusual mortise and tenon joint for hand tool woodworkers. Using a step-by-step approach ensures that each joint is successful using only hand tools, although the joint can also be made using both hand tools and a bandsaw if preferred. It is an excellent way for all hand tool woodworkers to develop their hand skills and shows just what it takes to make an alternative joint; resulting in a solid, well-made corner joint for frames such as doors and panels of different types used in woodworking.
I love watching you work through your projects. It is so instructive. Thanks Paul!
Thank you James for your kind words.
I’ve been wondering if the Swan Morton blades will fit in the English-made Stanley 10-49 knives. I’ve tried to install them in the US made 10-49s & they won’t fit. I’m just curious if anyone has tried or had success with this.
I thought I’d noticed the “SM” logo on one of Paul’s blades when he was using an English 10-49 (though it was in another series, can’t remember which exactly).
Paul has an old blog posts (6+ years or older if I recall) about finding a different blade that would fit and it might have required very minor filing to fit screw hole connection.
Thanks Joe
I believe the correct name for this joint is a bridle joint. It is strong and being so close to an end I can’t see how a M&T would really be stronger. The end grain that would make up the fourth glue surface would/will have negligible strength. A M&T joint might “hide” your mistakes and gappiness but it would still be weakened and prone to failure at some point.At least with the bridle joint you can see and get the joint perfect.
If still in doubt, the bridle joint could be pinned as well. The pins could be a decorative feature too.
Some additional comments, if allowed:
In his book “Woodwork Joints: How They are Set Out, How Made and Where Used” from 1921, William Fairham holds forward the strength of the bridle joint (both the T-version and the corner variant [also known as a slip joint]) when using hide glue, that it easily compares with the mortice and tenon joint, and, actually for narrow stock, such as side-hung windows, is to be preferred, as it, offers substantially larger glue surfaces (and for draw boring).
Forest Prod J 2006;56(1):82-86 reports on the strength of the mortice and tenon joint (for construction purposes) and what factors impact on the strength. Under substantial load, the tenons fractured. Among relevant predictors was the tightness of the shoulders.
Wood and Fiber Science 2012;44(12):462-469 reports the results from load tests on various types of mortice and tenon joints within cabinet and furniture making. The significance of tight shoulders is very clear.
Contrary to subjective deductions, these papers provide evidence towards that the strength of an open, or closed, mortice and tenon joint rests upon glue surface and shoulders; with no impact of a closed end.
Apart from having to glue the faces together, in order to clamp for a close fit of the shoulders, glue up, ideally, also calls for the bridle joint tenons to be minutely shorter than the width of the tenons. This is obviously not needed for the closed mortice and tenon joint. There are also issues around applying traditional thick veneers.
Aren’t most contemporary large doors made according to the torsion box principle, with laminates or veneer? As for cabinet doors made of solid wood, aesthetics dictate much of the choice of joinery – and once setup, production lines are very fast.