The Bandsaw

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Paul introduces the bandsaw as an extra device to free up time and energy to focus on hand tool woodworking. He goes over the uses of a bandsaw and the features that he looks for when acquiring one.

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  1. beach512 on 9 November 2018 at 10:47 am

    This looks like a very high end and expensive bandsaw. I would not be able to justify the cost of that model. I have a lower cost model. I hope you can go over bandsaw drift at some point. I have tried everything to work with it but nothing has worked for me. I would like to resaw some of my big and thick pieces of wood but can’t. I doubt you will have this problem with this high end bandsaw though so you may not cover that problem?

    • Benjamin Polidore on 9 November 2018 at 11:30 am

      Maybe a better blade?

    • allaninoz on 9 November 2018 at 11:33 am

      I had the same problem, turned out that the tooth size and pattern couldn’t get rid of the sawdust from the cut. The sawdust would start to build up on the side of the blade and push it sideways.

    • dpawson on 9 November 2018 at 1:25 pm

      Agreed. Also more than (UK) 13A feed needed?

      • Bob Blarney on 9 November 2018 at 1:52 pm

        13A @ 240VAC (~3100 W) is a more than sufficient for a bandsaw with 16″ (or less) wheels. One could probably get by easily with half that. My ancient 14″ Delta-Milwaukee (with a 6″ riser block to provide 12″ resaw capacity) is currently equipped with a 3/4HP @120VAC (~560 watts) motor. Use a sharp blade and feed the stock at a reasonable rate.

    • kevin winsor on 9 November 2018 at 2:01 pm

      Alex Snodgrass from Carter products has an excellent video on band saw setup. Hopefully Paul covers these issue in upcoming videos. Paul’s saw looks a lot like my Rikon from Highland Woodwork in the US, $800-1200.

    • Doug Finch on 9 November 2018 at 2:20 pm

      this guy is considered one of the foremost authorities on setting up bandsaws:

      When I rebuilt my old Crafstman that I bought, I followed his technique and with the proper blade, I can cut sheets thin enough that I could almost veneer them.

      As for blades, I found these to be the best for resawing:

      I need to replace mine – I’ve had it in service for about 1.5 years and have done a TON of hardwood resawing – since I mill and dry my own wood from logs.

      My saw is a 12″, by the way. I wish I had more depth of cut (7″ max), but it covers most needs effortlessly.

      When I rebuilt my saw, I did the following: (this is a saw from the 80’s) [$150.00 – I paid too much]
      Replaced all bearings – drive wheels and guide blocks (local bearing house) – [$30 – 8 sealed bearings]
      Replaced tires on both drive wheels – urethane tires off of (ebay) [$30/pair]
      Replaced both belts (ebay) [$30]
      Replaced faulty on/off switch (Sears parts) [$5]
      Kreg saw fence (Woodcraft – local to me) [$100]

      It sounds like a lot, but my old 12″ saw has a max cutting height capacity of 7″. When I compare that to an $800 Jet 14″ that only has a 6″ cutting height capacity – I’m ok with what I spent.

    • Howard Toon on 9 November 2018 at 3:37 pm

      I too wish that I could afford a piece of kit like this 🙁

      My benchtop cheapie isn’t up to this kind of spec.

    • Rob Young on 9 November 2018 at 3:43 pm

      Blade with no more than 3TPI and a hook-tooth pattern. Keep the blade sharp (they can be sharpened). Mine is 1/2″ wide and does just fine, buy them from Grizzly Machine Tools and sharpen them once in a while. Looks identical in tooth shape to Timberwolf branded blades but no idea who is actually making the Grizzly house brand.

      Don’t over-feed, let things cut at the rate they want to cut.

      Proper setup of the guides just behind the gullets so you don’t take out the set of the blade. Proper set up of the thrust bearing so you don’t overhead the blade because of friction (also over-feeding will bash the blade into the thrust bearing). Or manage to push the blade between the guides and, you guessed it, take out the set.

      Run the blade in the proper portion of the wheel (tire or tyre depending on your location). Multiple schools of thought as to where this is but where it ISN’T is having the teeth touching any part of the tire — removes the set on one side and guarantees drift.

      Correctly adjusted table (tilt) to the blade.

      Correctly adjusted fence to the blade. In my case, because I’ve taken the time to use the right blade, right tension (not nearly so much as you might think) and keep the blade sharp and in the right location I don’t have to faff about with setting a drift angle in the fence.

      On my “cheap” chinese copy of the Delta 14″ design with a riser block I have no problems cutting veneer that is 1/32″ average thickness in pine, poplar, ash, cherry, mahogany (and cousins), maple, or oak (don’t much get into other species).

      • jakegevorgian on 10 November 2018 at 4:09 am

        You’re a very nice man Rob 🙂 great tips! Much agreed on all you’ve set and some things were new to me! So I learned something new today.

    • Curtis Enlow on 9 November 2018 at 11:15 pm

      I found an older Delta 14″ bandsaw for a very reasonable price, mostly because it was set up improperly and the owner thought it was garbage. After some research and some tweaking i can cut even construction-grade timber into even, 1/8″ slices. Not bad for an inexpensive, old saw.

    • Glenn Dube on 10 November 2018 at 3:20 pm

      To me. If your’e not going to be using it for business or using it to resaw thousands of feet of lumber in a short time for a deadline then even the cheapest saw can be made to do what you want. The idea that you absolutely have to have the top line everything is kind of a myth. These little 14″ band saws that seem to be everywhere are plenty strong enough for most avaerage hobbyist applications. Mine is a used market purchase. It had a good motor. Came with a robust stand and has been no trouble to get it working perfectly, it was basically sold as scrap. One good thing is the design has been copied so many times by so many companies all the parts are practically interchangable.

    • pricemj43 on 31 December 2018 at 9:08 pm

      There are simple solutions to drift and it has nothing to do with hoe expensive a hand saw or the blade as long as it is sharp!