28 comments on “Tool Drawer Organiser: Episode 4

  1. Great work as always.

    I have done a couple of blind dovetails but often it’s not perfect enough for what i like. And when you’re not satisfied you need to analyse what went wrong or what could be done better. My problem starts with the tails. If those are not perfect, the pins won’t be too. Next time, and that’s pretty soon, i know to take extra care when cutting the tails.

  2. It’s often the throwaway comments that provide the golden nuggets of learning in Paul’s videos – blink and you’ve missed it – I just caught the mention of veneering the drawer front to get the book matched look!

  3. Enjoyed this episode very much! While I’m not building this project (yet!), Paul taught this very same process for the drawer making on the workbench. The drawer I made for my workbench, using this same process, came out about as perfect as I could have ever imagined.

    • To do a book match, you resaw a piece of material and open it like a book to get a reflected pattern. One way is to start with material a bit more than twice as thick as you need, but that can require thick material and you won’t know what you’re going to get until you resaw. Look carefully at the video at around 1:12. You can see in the end grain that one of the pieces has a lamination that is about 1/8″ thick. I believe what he did was to resaw material off of one of his pieces, because he liked the grain pattern, and then he glued that veneer onto the other drawer front. This produces book matched drawer fronts (or slip matched, if you don’t flip it). Maybe he resawed 1/4 or 3/16 to leave room to plane down to get what looks like 1/8″ in the video? I’m guessing at dimensions. If he started with 5/4 material, he’d have enough thickness to do this and then equalize both pieces to his final drawer front thickness of 3/4″. Without this trick, he’d need to start with something like 8/8 and he’d not know what pattern he’d get until he resawed. Anyway, that’s what it looks like to me.

    • Hi Antonio,

      Paul says:

      I simply glued the one drawer front to the face of the other drawer front and had allowed extra thickness on the first one so that when I cut through to create the drawer fronts, the book match was perfect. So, what we have is a full thickness drawer front on one and a veneer on the other.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  4. I’m a bit confused about the length of the sides. How do you measure them ?
    You cant simply slide them in place and mark them where they match the front face of the carcass, due to the half-lap joint.

      • Hi Izzy,

        My question is about drawer making (not specific to this project) :
        I understand how to get accurate dimensions for the drawer’s front and back. However, for the drawer sides, what is the best way to cut them accurately to length (so that once the half-blind dovetails are cut and the sides are attached to the front, the front of the drawer is aligned with the carcass of the box/chest)

        (my first message was indeed pretty poor !! hope it’s clearer now 🙂 )

        • Hi,

          Thank you for clarifying.

          Paul says:
          Although that could be possible, I doubt whether most people, including myself, could actually get the drawer dead to size so it perfectly aligns. Therefore we generally make it slightly oversized and plane down to suit.

          Kind Regards,
          Izzy

          • Izzy, I think he’s asking about something else. I think the answer to his question is that the drawer sides are cut somewhat short so that the assembled drawer is shorter than the interior depth of the carcase. A stop block will be installed to get the drawer face to match the front of the carcase. When the drawer is pushed in against the stop, the face is flush, but the back of the drawer will have some clearance with the back of the carcase, maybe half an inch to an inch. So, the drawer side length is the least important dimension of all. The placement of the stop block is what matters, not the length of the sides, and even then you probably set the block so as to leave the face a hair proud and then take a shaving or two from the drawer face to get things exactly right.

          • thanks Izzy, answers completely my question. Been thinking over and over again how to do it, but indeed looks like the way to go is to oversize a bit and plane to adjust.
            Thanks !

          • Izzy, I’m puzzled by this answer and noho’s response. As ed described, the drawer sides will have to be undersized in length by a good amount and stops installed in the front as shown by Paul in a number of other videos.

            The carcass (carcase for some) has grain running in the vertical plane, so it could expand and contract by as much as 1/4″ with seasonal changes (16″ wide flat sawn pine). But the drawer sides will hardly shrink or expand along its length (i.e., along the depth of the carcass). Cutting oversized, and then planing down the drawer side length for an exact fit does not make sense to me.

  5. I have been watching Paul use his router for sometime. I was suddenly curious what blade he used to mark and then remove material, Pointed or square faced. While watching his use in routing the shallow rebate on the organizer I noticed he was using the pointed end. That was when he showed us the router just before actually marking the wood. Then when he actually marked the wood he used the corner of a square faced blade.
    I am just trying to see what his recommendation is when to use a pointed blade and when to use the square faced blade.

      • At 13:26 Video show Paul showing a pointed blade in the router saying it is set for 1/16 inch . As he said and as I also said in my first comment he definitely used the corner of the flat blade to mark the rebate. hat was why I was confused. I have the answer I was looking for which is the square faced blade is almost all ways used.
        thank you for the organizer drawer project.
        I am using Butternut which I have had for years but initially using a table saw to size the work . I decided to stop using the butternut because even with a vacuum attachment the table saw put an unbelievable amount of very fine dust it into the air. Cleanup was unbelievable.. Not an issue with using Pauls hand tool work. Air quality just another advantage to not using machines.

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