The next section is the back frame, which holds the main carcass square and solid. Paul lays out the mortice holes and then it is time to plough the groove and cut the mortice and tenons according to the drawings and using the same techniques as the divider panel. With that together Paul measures up and cuts the plywood panel, before checking the whole frame for fit and gluing up.
Paul creates a fill in piece with stub tenons to fit into the space at the bottom of the back panel. Then he removes the haunches at the top of the panel before leveling the panel meeting points with the plane and scraper. Then we’re ready to attach the back to the carcass, making sure to pre drill before screwing on the panel. This completes the main cabinet.
Paul discusses the elements involved in making a twist free door and checks and prepares the stock. We then move onto cutting the groove, using a gauge to help prevent tearout. With the frame grooved, Paul shows how to layout the frame in preparation for cutting the mortises.
It’s time to mark the gauge lines for the tenons of the rails. Then Paul shows a few techniques for cutting the tenons using a combination of the saw and chisel, before using the router to fit them to the mortises. He cuts the haunches and shows how to make sure to align the joints. He then assembled the whole frame to check for twist and cleans them up.
There are lots of options of how to do the panels in the door. Paul shows how to insert a central perpendicular piece in place. He shows how to layout to ensure crisp mortice and tenons, after ensuring everything is square and aligned. Then comes the fitting of the tenons to the mortises to finish the initial door frame construction.
We’re ready to assemble the door with the hammer and clamp, checking the joints, to get accurate measurements for the panels. Once the panels are cut to size, Paul discussed the options for fitting them to the groove. Paul uses a marking gauge to mark his recess, then rebates the panels, introducing a few different techniques. With that done, there is the final dry run before systematically gluing up the door.
Paul goes through the process of fitting a door into a cabinet opening. The first step is to check the door is straight and true. Once that is done, Paul shows how to create a slight taper to the inside edge to help ensure a tight fit. He fits the stile, then the head and then the foot of the door, with a slight consistent gap all around. With the door fitted, Paul fits the hinges and shows what to look out to ensure tight and square hinges. He pre drills and then fits the screws, and shows how to layout the middle hinge.
There are a few things to check before hanging a door. Paul shows how he positions the door in the opening with the correct spacing, well as showing how to layout and recess the hinges into the cabinet. He shows the process of eliminating gaps caused by any movement in the wood, before moving on to fitting the second door and planing the doors to ensure they fit perfectly with a leading edge at the central meeting point.
Paul shows how to make sawtooth shelf adjusters. These allow the placement of shelves at various heights using fitted brackets. They also act as a door stop or planted rebate. The layout is key to aligning the shelves, and once done Paul cuts and chops the sawteeth. Once reinforced, he screws them in place and shows how to cut and fit the brackets, including the brackets for the sloped shelf.
As part of fitting the shelves, Paul cuts a rebated piece to cover the front of his plywood shelf. He then fits the shelf to the cabinet, ensuring it fits around the sawtooth shelf supports. He then fixes the rebated piece and the stops to ensure the shelves stay in place in use. Paul also shows how to fit an optional sloped shelf.