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I have had this problem too when I first started, it is possibly your stance I think, but check your stone or plate are flat first. Then ensure that you are not leaning too heavily towards your stronger more dominant side, and unknowingly putting pressure on this side. once you have eliminated these elements check that you are standing correctly PS offers loads of advice and videos on this problem. learn his technique, it is probably new to you but once you have got this muscle memory, which it basically is you have it for life. You will never learn how to sharpen using a jig, it is like every thing else you need to learn. it takes practice and a fair bit. it took me a lot of inches of chisel steel but I have got it now. I also found regularly blacking the bevel with say a felt tip pen is a good idea this will show if you are going a bit to one side or the other but you need to keep checking. Using a jig will only hide or mask the issue not correct it
@craig
Dear @craig after the accident that put me in my a wheelchair it is about all I can do to put words together so to people like you that don’t think before shooting off their smart mouth stick to trolling youtube and I hope you end up like I have and lets have a laugh at how you cope with a life-changing event caused by a drunk behind a wheel of a carI have power tools but hardly use them now I should get rid of what I don’t use but its hard to part with things I will list them in order of use
10-speed long bed wood lathe from Axminster I use this most weeks I like turning
12-inch band saw Rexon I use this most I think I am lazy I mostly use it for cutting my bowl blanks
10-inch table saw SIP ripping stock when I have bought a few boards mostly oak
10-inch thicknesser Dewalt I hardly ever use it unless I have a lot of timber to dimension and then I might not both with it
??-inch Jointer err don’t even now where it is or when I last used it
drill press in my metal shop where it’s used quite a bit, on metal that is
Battery Dewalt 14.4 volt drills I have got around six maybe more I can never find them when I want one and no one seems to want 14.4-volt drills so they are cheap off eBay
Dumped on top of a cupboard somewhere never used now Power planes 3 may be 4 they are like my drills, circular saw a cheap one from Screw Fix again never use it
Dewalt radial arm saw bought because it was cheap never used itDoes this help I doubt it but there you go
bag up in clear polythene sheeting, Deep freezer for two weeks, aim for as lower temp as you can get it, end of week two remove polythene and de-frost the wood slowly, bag up again in clear polythene sheeting then re-freeze for another week, remove polythene sheeting and de-frost slowly. when de-frosted brush off and vacuum up any dust, dirt, and dead things. that should do it but you need to aim for temperatures of around -20 to -30 degrees Centigrade or -4 to -22 degrees Fahrenheit.
I guess PS is not reading this hence no official response. I have just been stung for £185 for a new national beehive. Just think of the tools I could have bought with this. What I have done however is carefully drawn round each piece of the new flat pack self assembly hive onto mount board and made a set of patterns. latter on this year I will have a go and see if they work.
Yepp I bought some of these off Ebay on the 20th October 2013 and have used them most days since. I would not say that they are perfectly flat and true but for under £10 what do you expect.
On the other hand they do sharpen beautifully, and quickly too (so don’t get carried away). They are certainly far better than my old Norton oil stone who has not been out of his box since.
That said however I still do finish off the sharpening process with some green soap (honing compound) on a piece of flat wood. I am not sure if this is strictly necessary but that is how I have always done it.
To lubricate the plates or not? I do! using cheap paint brush cleaner, the sort of stuff that goes white when rinsed out in water. I guess the health and safety police would go mad at this, but I have found it works the best out of all the stuff I have tried.
I occasional have used the finest plate to sharpen my straight razors (cut throat) this followed by stropping. I shave every day with a straight razor and you can sure tell if they are not perfectly sharp along the full length of the blade.
Does this help?
I think I would put an apron around the base not too deep this would give extra longitudinal rigidity. in addition you could then use the apron to hide any extra strengtheners you feel it needs.
Not sure about the Formica top though. hummm 1960s, but maybe that is the key. Strong stuff that Formica, whack a bit on the base and perhaps a bit on the drawers and sides too while your at it. Just the job.
I think it maybe that you are planing more towards your dominate side that is to say if your right handed you tend to plane heavier towards the right and so on, at least I do. I always notice it more when I have just sharpened a plane.
Or are you getting really heavy cuts at the very edge of the blade? in that instance it might be you need to camber the extreme edges of the blade a little.
But before you take on what I say, please read some of the more sagely responses that are sure to come.
I am certain Paul has covered this in Masterclasses or on his blog so a quick search could be the order of the day.
I hope this helps
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