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[quote quote=80944]On the backs of my chisels I work on the granite/ paper as I like to keep my stones for the beveled edged blades, but I will work on the 1000 for a bit stone as well. What grits are you progressing through? Also paul did a YouTube video on flattening/ sharpening I sometimes go back to as a refresher.[/quote]
Hi, its coarse-fine-super fine (the plate in question). The fine actually leaves an even finer scratch pattern than the super fine hence my question…[quote quote=78749]Not much to offer for reply, I have the dmt stones, and all three are noticeably different.[/quote]
Hi, thanks for your reply. Here I’ve uploaded pictures of the scratch pattern left by the diamond plate in question, how does it compare to your DMT’s equivalent?Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.[quote quote=28157]I really can’t tell by he picture but unless this is a custom made door it’s probably layered. However, you could do that with a hand plane but it would take some creative placement of guides and some shop built tooling… There is a challange for you! I think I might use that on a small box and see what happens…[/quote]
Shouldn’t be that hard… A no. 10 or 78 plane, or better yet, a wooden sash rebate plane (for its tall fence and skewed iron) is probably all it takes.
Sam[quote quote=23894]Just my opinion….<br>
Book was written in 1845. Average height of a man in 1845 was 65″.<br>
The book recommends 2′-8″ for bench height.<br>
Therefore, 32″ + 2″(for plane) + 4-5″(average height today is 70″) = 38-39″ bench height for today.I think there are a few reasons for shorter bench lengths. Only one person works at a bench today. In the past there would have been an apprentice. Available work space has become much smaller as well. I think most of us would build a 10-12′ bench if we had the space. What I see more of on here are people building there benches shorter than 5′ to fit there work space.
Bench tops thickness varied even in 1845. The French still were building there benches out of thick slabs, i.e. Roubo’. The book covers an American-English design. We have thicker tops today mostly due to the quality of wood available. In 1845 the wood was most likely much tighter grained. Resulting in heavier and stiffer lumber than we have now. So we build thicker to compensate for the quality of available lumber.
[/quote]Right… People were shorter then…
But is there an explanation as to why wood was denser then? And was it really twice as dense as it is now (since the thickness was half of what it is now).Seriously though, I think this is a slap in the face to those “saw doctors”. There are (more like “used to be”) many great saw doctors who restore, refine, finely sharpen and adjust saws, but they also kind of mystify this whole saw sharpening business, which should be, just like pencil sharpening, easily done by any craftsperson given a few hours of practice. I’m not saying we should avoid saw doctors (well it’s not like they exist anymore anyway…), but if you think paying for pencil sharpening is ridiculous, then paying for saw sharpening isn’t much better.
Oh and, I’ve a feeling the plague of sharpening debates is finally infecting more than just woodworkers. Sooner or later painters alike are gonna have bloodsheds over pencil sharpening too :). And of course, some company is gonna come up with a fancy, probably powered pencil sharpener. Oh wait they already have that…
Gotta love the 21st century.John,
We’ve been talking mortises so much. Time for the tenons 🙂
Maybe you should try and fit a tenon to one of your better mortises. Gets a bit boring after weeks of pounding on a chisel with a mallet don’t it? 😉 Might wanna make a change and get a feel of how tenoning feels like. After all perfecting one part of the joint doesn’t help if you don’t have the other part.
I always practice mortising and tenoning, never just one of them. No matter how bad the mortise turned out I always tried to fix it and fit a tenon to it (of course a bad mortise would lead to a ill fitting joint no matter how hard you tried…). It’s part of woodworking. We all make mistakes in joints and we need to learn how to FIX them.
Another reason to practice tenon making is that there are many ways to do it and it’d be nice if you picked one that suits you. Sawing, paring with a chisel, routering, chisel plane, rabbet plane or even a good ol’ no 4 are probably just some of the ways to make and trim a tenon.
Router’s a good place to start, can’t go wrong with it. If you have a handscrew clamp you can use that as a guide for chisel/chisel plane trimming, pretty much a no-brainer too.I’ve been practicing sawing right to the line, no tuning :/. It’s good to set a high target.
May beginner woodworkers (me and you) all master the basic joint of mortise and tenon.
Sam
A few things to all the beginners building the Workbench (from a beginner building the Workbench)
I’d try building a smaller bench with thinner legs first… Paul Sellers’ bench is great in design but chopping 3 1/2″ deep through mortises can be too challenging for beginners. Build a shorter bench. Since it’s shorter, even thinner legs will support it. I’ve built a 5′ bench with 2 5/8 legs and it works well (it’s also much narrower than the original design, at 24″).
Also, practice some 2 ” deep by 3/8″ wide joints first. I find this size most manageable, not so small that it requires super precision, not so big it requires a lot of brute force and hammering. I’d only tried two of those before doing the real joints on my bench. Didn’t mess up a single one of then.
It’s good if the ends are hollow. Undercut ends actually help reduce friction when assembling and I did this on every joint.
And again strop your chisel often.
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