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Hi John
First about olive oil, all vegetable oils can go rancid. How likely they do seems to be more of a case to case basis and is probably more to how they were made.
I’m not sure about putting anything then just wax with or without a thinner (turpentine or other) on top of shellac. The shellac will not allow for the oil to absorb into the wood so you would have to wait for the oil in the wax to air dry and that could take weeks or more. I think these mixes are to use as the only finish and not with shellac.
If you are looking for a wax with color, take a look at kiwi shoe polish. The major difference to furniture wax is just the price.
Hi,
It’s a little tricky to get started if the tools aren’t setup correctly by the previews user but don’t get frustrated, that is what this forum is for. 🙂
It sounds like you have already diagnosed the 5, and that the frog is skewed. Loosen the screws to the frog and adjust it so it’s level with the mouth and try again.
Like jotato said it sounds like the cap iron on the 4 isn’t meeting the blade correctly. You can reshape the cap iron to get a correct fit without gaps. Take a look at this video how to reshape the cap iron. https://youtu.be/I2lvF8-nc_Q arround the 32 min mark, this is an other resource for setting up the cap iron on a “new” plane http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/preparing-the-cap-iron-chip-breaker-video/.
Stanley only used proprietary thread on their tools so you would need to get the screw from an other Stanley plane. Check ebay sometimes there are some spare parts for sale. You can also check with tool collectors for parts as they usually have some extra (Patrick Leach at http://www.supertool.com/ is one place), some woodworking forums has a has a trade section were you can put up a request. Retapp is an alternative but would ruin the resell value, but it might now matter to get it back to be a useful tool.
Here is a good article http://www.getwoodworking.com/news/article/sharpening-hand-saws/783
Setting the teeth
Setting the teeth is also an uncomplicated aspect of saw sharpening. We use a device called a saw set, but small-toothed saws are often too small for sawsets in which case we use a small nail punch. Most dedicated saw sets don’t go down to the range we need for fine saws, yet the saws must have the correct amount of set, otherwise they bind in the cut and make the saw difficult to use or they waggle in the cut and you lose precision.
flattening teeth setting teeth checking alignment
Flattening teeth and resetting and checking the saw for alighment.
lapping the blade
Finally, place the saw on fine
sharpening plates and rub the
saw back and forth for a few
rubs. This will both polish and
fine-tune the outside cutting
corners of the teeth
For nail-punch setting I lay the saw on its side with the teeth on a thin batten of wood so that the saw is raised up above the workbench. I also lay a batten under the back stiffening bar, to suspend the saw up on the bench.This saw had no set at all, and so I didn’t have to follow the direction of the existing set. Otherwise, I would simply drive the teeth according to the existing pattern. If the existing set seems irregular, tap the sides of the teeth with a hammer on a steel surface or an anvil to remove the set.
setting tool
alignment
1. Using a setting tool
2. Keeping a file at right
angles for a ripsaw set.
Otherwise, place the point of the nail punch on the tooth and begin tapping every alternate tooth with a single tap. I use a 10oz Warrington. When you get to the end, flip the saw over and start again, but this time begin setting the opposite teeth to the ones you just did.
With the setting completed, try the saw. It may feel coarse, if so, then it’s likely that you have too much set. Take the saw back to the anvil or metal vise jaw and tap the sides of the teeth evenly, first from one side of the saw, and then the other.Try the saw again and compare the cut. This tapping does not remove all of the set because the steel has memory. Tapping the steal compresses the steel between the hammer and the face of the anvil, but the teeth spring back after the hammer blows, but to a more uniform level.
Sounds like there might been moister in the container. I would return it to the store where you got it. You might be better of with flakes, that way you can just make a small batch when you need it. If you keep the flakes in a sealed container in a dry dark place they will last for a long time.
Just be aware that walnut oil is an allergen, so if you serve anyone with a nut allergy they can have an allergic reaction to any food prepared with utensils coated in walnut oil or any other nut oil.
Not sure how big deal this is in other countries right now, but where I live it’s a big deal. Kids are not allowed to bring any food to schools that has nuts or has been prepared in a environment that has contact with any nut product. if they find that your kid is bringing nut products to school the kid will be suspended. This all sounds crazy but the schools don’t want to take any liability for sending a kid with nut allergy into anaphylaxis shock from eating an other kids food by accident or on purpose.
You can use a rip saw for cross cutting, it’s not perfect but it works. Just make sure to have knife walls on both sides of the saw cut. If you are just going to use it as a cross cut saw and never rip with it then it would be better to file it for cross cut only.
All saws that you find in the big box stores are cross cut and works well for this so if you want a cheep dedicated cross cut saw you can go that route.
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