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3 January 2017 at 11:01 pm #143788
Small update – heating to get blue temper would likely work for premium quality spring steel like 1095. I doubt that disposable saws are made out of this grade – one I have tempered to blue gets dull quite quickly.
Another one I have tempered only to ~220 Centigrade is much better, and this is consistent with the info on hardness vs temperature of spring steels: http://www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/temper_colors_hardness.htm
10 November 2016 at 8:17 pm #142331I once attempted to grind down the teeth with an angle grinder, going slowly not to overheat the steel etc. The plate below the teeth was still quite hard and my file was getting worn really quickly.
Krzysztof.
10 November 2016 at 11:11 am #142313I found it quite difficult to temper (soften) only the teeth with a torch. You don’t want to anneal the steel completly, only temper back to appropriate hardness to match rest of the blade.
For me putting the blade in an electric kitchen oven worked fine close to the high end of power setting. No problems with fitting a 500mm saw diagonally, longer ones would have to be somehow hanged from top front corner to lower back corner. Thermostats in home ovens are not very accurate so pay attention during the process. Also depending on where the heating elements are located temperature might not be as even in the whole volume as needed – heating in the “fan mode” seems to equalize temperature better. Wider part of the saw (the heel) could also heat at a slower rate – so just observe the colour change and react accordingly. I believe dark to light blue is what you want to achieve for a handsaw.
Remember that some saw blades are coated to protect them against rust – the coating is not that easy to remove but wears out with use – hopefully you’re not putting a brand new saw in the oven! Same goes for the painted markings. The change of colour with temperature occurs due to thin iron oxide layer being formed – for that to happen you need to have fresh steel exposed.
Afterwards let it cool, joint the teeth and sharpen away! You can also recut teeth with a hacksaw, shorten it or even surface grind with a belt sander – this is something I have not tried but Paul mentioned for restoration of heavily rusted saws with potential.
30 January 2014 at 10:12 pm #26895I’m glad you all like the outcome – this really builds my confidence as the project was quite a challenge for me due to small size.
@deniseg – of course, as soon as it gets warmer to work in the shop comfortably again. Chisels, pencils and plough cutting irons are eagerly awaiting their boxes!
@smassiesr – the box is 56mm square (2 3/16″) and 28mm high (1 1/8″).22 January 2014 at 7:21 pm #26394If you watch closely, his elbow is directly above (or even tight against) his thigh when he rounds that corner. This cushions the stroke so no cut happens.
Similar thing when pulling drawknife towards the chest – elbows are pulled towards each other and not spread wide so blade cannot reach the chest.
9 January 2014 at 10:08 am #25575Good work, John!
I definitely need to get myself a gouge and have a go at my firewood… I managed to salvage quite a few straight 2-3 inch riven pieces of white oak, beech and robinia. Makes me cringe seeing how such nice wood gets cut into firewood logs…
31 December 2013 at 12:38 am #24856It helped me a lot when I realized you want to plane as if you wanted to get the surface hollow in the middle – put most downward pressure in the middle of the stroke, with low to no pressure in the start and the end.
30 December 2013 at 9:01 am #24792I have found a nice deal on a new iron + cap iron combo on ebay – now the plane works perfectly! I didn’t try to move the frog forward yet – I just haven’t found a need to do that yet.
14 December 2013 at 8:27 pm #23879Same story with my vise.
As you mentioned PTFE tape – maybe “teflon” tape used for wrapping plumbing pipe threads could be used as well? It is cheap and widely available.
I’ll try that with my vise and report back.
7 December 2013 at 10:49 pm #23257Thanks for the diagnosis – I would have never found this without you guys!
I can easily get a brand new plane iron for a modern Stanley here in Poland, but cap irons are not available (at least in online stores selling planes).
I’ll keep on watching ebay.
Thanks again,
Krzysztof7 December 2013 at 10:36 pm #23256Not sure if this isn’t going against the traditional methods, but I have successfully made short and long hardwood dowels using the “pencil sharpener” method as described by Matthias Wandel (skipping the router and using drawknife/plane instead).
I would suggest sizing the entry hole for a square stock (~ 1.5 x finished diameter) and tapering/stepping the hole to finished diameter on the outfeed.
I have made several blocks and just clamp 1″ chisel to them whenever I need to make a dowel.
26 July 2013 at 2:22 pm #15319Piotr,
I know how you feel – some time ago I got new stanley 60 1/2 low angle block plane. I was too eager to get it and didn’t want to wait until something nice shows up on ebay with reasonable shipping.
Regarding your technique – remember to dust off the sandpaper periodically and change it when it stops abrading satisfactorily. From the photo I’m judging you’re using the one intended for sanding drywall or plaster. I’d get the more durable one intended for working with metal (cloth underside). You can easily see when paper loses its bite when the particles are “glazed” and have lost sharpness. Far cheaper in terms of labor is to get fresh sandpaper than to wear yourself on the dull one.
BTW – I still haven’t fettled my 60 1/2 to acceptable level, but I’m getting there in stages!
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