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12 March 2022 at 12:57 am #752042
I’d recommend using some scrap wood to practice using it as well and keep adjusting things to see how it behaves. I was getting similar results and was just fiddling with it and kind of stumbled my way into it but that tweaking and trying things gave me a better understanding of the tool.
I’d also add to check the sole, with a veritas it’s probably not an issue but with my both Kunz spokeshave and cabinet scraper I was able to make them work a little bit better honing them on my diamond stones.
-Matt
30 August 2021 at 7:10 pm #726611I have a waxed canvas apron from Texas Canvas Wares I use in warmer weather, I didn’t used to use an apron but it is an easy way to keep sawdust off your clothes (and by extension the furniture in the house). it was a bit expensive but it might end up being worth it. I have a cheaper apron for wood turning that’s basically got a tight fitting collar to prevent chips from going down your shirt and aside from that one feature it doesn’t feel as nice to wear or feel as sturdy as the waxed canvas.
When it gets cold out (around freezing temperature) I switch to some carhartt overalls and then when it gets cold enough that “around freezing temperatures” seems warm I add a really heavy duty carhartt jacket on top of that.
-Matt
16 May 2021 at 11:22 pm #713500The Joiner and Cabinet Maker published by Lost Art Press. Part of it is a reprint of an 1839 book targeted at a young man looking at becoming a joiner or cabinet maker apprentice. It also has a section on the historical context. I found it very interesting.
-Matt
16 May 2021 at 2:45 pm #713446On the topic of name stamps I was reading a book recently on 1800s woodworking and the reason for the name stamp was insurance. If it wasn’t stamped you couldn’t insure it.
-Matt Newman
16 May 2021 at 2:32 pm #713444Nice score, when I found my 78 I was the only bidder too (I think I got mine for 35 USD) and it ended up being new old stock never used.
I’ve not had much luck finding Stanley router planes on eBay. I did find one once and realized after the fact that all in with shipping I spent almost as much as I could get a Veritas large router. I’m not sure what they go for in Australia but something to consider.
-Matt Newman
26 November 2020 at 6:02 pm #687740I made the saw in the attached picture earlier this year mostly just for fun and to see if I could do it. It has become by far my favorite saw to use for small things. It’s a 9″ saw only about 1.5″ depth of cut, blade is 0.015″ thick and it’s 16 PPI rip cut (I made it from a kit from Blackburn Tools http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/slotted-back-saw-kits/index.html if you are interested though it is quite a bit of work).
I’ve gotten a lot better at cutting dovetails having previously used a tenon saw and Crown gents saw. I think the thinner blade and finer cut have helped (though sharpening 16ppi is not the easiest), also the shallower depth of cut vs the tenon saw improved control and I think the pistol styled grip made it easier to be consistent compared to the the gents saw.
So to kind of summarize the smaller saw helped me a lot with dovetails.
-Matt
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You must be logged in to view attached files.26 November 2020 at 5:45 pm #687735I use the same blades for cutting both solid wood and plywood and had no problems. I generally run low TPI in the 3-4 range but that’s mostly just because it cuts faster and I have a whole spool of it (and a friend with a band saw blade welder).
-Matt
26 April 2020 at 1:35 am #658706I used to use a cheap craftsman shop vac with my bandsaw and it worked fairly well, got a good amount of dust but it didn’t have a conventional air filter so it it blew some dust out of the back of it. I upgraded to a more powerful vacuum with a good filter and found with big projects it ends up clogging the filter and causing problems.
I’m considering picking up a cyclone dust separator thing, my understanding is you put it between your machine and shop vac and it forces the dust to settle out in a container and not go through the shop vac but I haven’t tried that yet. Might be something to consider
24 April 2020 at 7:52 pm #658527I operate mine in the garage without dust collection and just cleanup after (and wear a mask if I’m doing a lot)
For #3 with a good blade, goes as wide as you can to minimize blade wandering I can get very consistent sizing but I do have to run over things with a hand saw to clean it up.
24 April 2020 at 5:48 pm #658512I have a 10″ bandsaw and I’ve been very happy with it, it has a resaw capacity up to I think 4 and 5/8 inches. The trick is you have to find a good blade for it. Mine supports a maximum blade width of 1/2″, if you can get a high quality one it resaws really well though you can’t go as fast as a really big machine.
I think it depends on what you find yourself needing for it. The largest I’ve ever resawed is 3.5 inches, anything larger than that and I’m going to try and buy the stock milled closer to size I need especially when the price jump in my area going from 9-10″ to 14″ is 4-5 times more expensive. As to the lifetime tool part, my 10″ probably could end up doing that but a lot of the 9″ bandsaws I looked at are likely not high enough quality.
For me a clue is when you can find multiple brands with identical specifications and if you ignore the paint are identical. That’s usually an indication that they are all coming from the same source and in my experience that’s not an indication of high quality. As an example I’ll list off 3 brands I looked at in person for 9″ bandsaws (Performax, Ryobi, a Central Machinery). I’d bet all the parts are interchangeable, and having seen all 3 in person I wouldn’t recommend any of them.
All that said, I only really use mine for batch resawing, everything else I end up doing by hand
18 April 2020 at 4:09 pm #657688Thanks for your responses, I hadn’t seen the poor man’s saw set I’ll have to give that a try.
I also reached out to the owner of Blackburn Tools (I used a kit from him for the hardware blade and hardware) and asked his advice and figured I’d share it in case someone else was had the same question. He suggested looking for a saw set (the same ones Paul recommends) and filing down the hammer if needed to fit the teeth.
As an aside, I highly recommend Blackburn tools. Very helpful, he even spent a good amount of time on the phone with me walking me through how to complete a step.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.17 April 2020 at 3:33 am #657486Having assembled the saw and done a test cut I’ve answered part of my own question, yes it does need some set I’m just not sure how
17 April 2020 at 1:24 am #657473I got a little distracted, instead of refining the handle on my S&J I ended up getting a dovetail saw kit from Blackburn Tools and making a handle from scratch (I’ll post a better picture once it’s done)
The Highland Woodworking ones are nice, maybe a bit plain stylistically speaking. The Blackburn Tools saw nuts are really nice as well, perhaps a bit flashier.
-Matt Newman
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You must be logged in to view attached files.17 April 2020 at 1:17 am #657472I’ve had similar situation with my 10″ Rikon, worked pretty well but was hard to get good cuts out of it. Ordered a custom blade from SawBlade.com and it transformed the saw.
Can’t understate how much difference a good blade makes!
-Matt Newman
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