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20 October 2014 at 8:35 am #119709
I can spot 9 salvageable items in the lot, so not bad for the price!
12 September 2014 at 9:11 am #80261Mill file along the top of the teeth until the tooth line is flat and back to clean metal. Then you can start filing the teeth. You can find printable patterns for RIP/Crosscut at different TPIs with google.
16 August 2014 at 6:36 am #61337A milder alternative to vinegar or citric acid bath is a molasses bath. Dilute 1 volume of molasses with 9 volumes of water, then add your rusty items. I have restored a box of files and rasps that way, they look brand new. I will try it on saw blades next.
10 June 2014 at 2:16 pm #58194Yeah the hydrogen part of the process is the reason why I haven’t done it yet. Well, that and the fact that molasses gives very good results.
9 June 2014 at 10:04 pm #58170I have tried vinegar, lemon juice and 10% molasses/water. I do find that the molasses solution is slower but requires less clean-up afterwards. I normally keep the vinegar for the times when I want to give a specific patina to hardware.
I also have everything required for electrolysis, but didn’t try it yet.
8 June 2014 at 8:59 am #57995Salko,
to make it even more complicated there are “outdoor/high humidity” white glues on the market: type 1 PVA glues. They do require a catalyst but are waterproof once dry. Type 2 PVA glues are just water resistant.
Most of the time, for indoor pieces, I use hot hide glue or hot bone glue. I tend to rub joints to save on clamping time, as I only have a few clamps. I don’t even buy PVA glues anymore as I always end up throwing the pots more than half full.
8 June 2014 at 8:33 am #57994I have successfully straightened small saws in the past by using a club hammer as the anvil.
On the subject of plate restoration, if you can remove the handle, a week long bath in a 9-to-1 water/molasses mix followed by a light scrubbing with a brass brush does miracles for the rust. I have restored old rusty saw plates, files and rasps with this method. You absolutely need to give them a thin oil coat after that, otherwise you will get some flash rust.
Saving old tools from the junk pile is a lot of fun 🙂
8 June 2014 at 8:23 am #57993And for a change, traditional Tokyo joinery. I love how he cuts all the blind dovetails free-handed just with the chisel.
下町に息づく伝統の技 江戸指物1/6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85GrCHbdaJ4
下町に息づく伝統の技 江戸指物2/6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwzeONtOAFg
下町に息づく伝統の技 江戸指物3/6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U98YYBeG7NI
下町に息づく伝統の技 江戸指物4/6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQNyA0SBoVA
下町に息づく伝統の技 江戸指物5/6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIEIaZFOCaU
下町に息づく伝統の技 江戸指物6/6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVZXYh_b-34Paulownia looks like a very nice wood to work with hand tools.
10 April 2014 at 5:23 pm #55331A traditional fix I have seen in a different hobby of mine was to plug the hole with a more malleable metal, peen it over, file it flush and then drill a new hole.
However, the item wasn’t as thin as a saw plate. It may still be worth a try.
17 January 2014 at 6:58 pm #26104I remember watching it a while ago 🙂 Making bench hooks was also an early exercise in some books of sloyd.
4 December 2013 at 9:07 am #23005[quote quote=22217]I havent tried it myself, I have not needed to, but I heard about using citric acid.[/quote]
I cleaned most of my tools using the lemon juice you find in the cooking section of the supermarket, followed by a quick encounter with a brush and sandpaper. I finish with a coat of 3-in-1 and so far didn’t have any rust coming back.
As I have some jars of molasses I don’t use, I will also attempt that method with the next batch of tools.
25 May 2013 at 7:13 am #12497After years of frustration caused by issues with my 78 plane, and many tuning attempts, I gave up and started using the plain old unfenced wooden rebate planes a few weeks ago. They do work a treat if you keep the inside arris sharp and square.
You basically mark the shoulder line with your marking gauge, then tip the arris in that mark and do a couple of light passes (essentially establishing a knife wall for your rebate). Then you gradually tip the plane back to horizontal and plane until you hit your depth line.
I mainly use that plane for moulding work at the moment but plan to use it for casework as well in the future.
23 May 2013 at 1:04 pm #12407Yeah that’s why we hope to do the round-trip on one tank from a cheaper gas area 🙂
That is one nice gauge!
21 May 2013 at 7:56 pm #12267The prices of tools in the UK are so low that we’re planning a rust hunting weekend with a friend.
Eddy, 100 miles round trip is also becoming the normal daily commute on this side of the channel. I am currently lucky enough to “only” have a daily 60 miles round-trip across a border.
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