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15 February 2020 at 9:46 pm #649219
I have made oval fishing nets by bending and laminating strips over a form. There are many you tube videos on this. I use the soaking method instead of steaming. Also gorilla glue works best. Other than ripping the strips on a bandsaw, everything is done with hand tools. A spokeshave is used more than any other tool.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.24 February 2019 at 9:05 pm #555334An alternative to an eclipse is the older Wilton vises. These were made for industrial arts programs and are very rugged! This one came from a school that had discontinued its wood shop program.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.11 November 2018 at 10:17 pm #553161You could, if permissible, layout the size of the cabinet on the wall and then cut the drywall about 2” smaller all around. Install plywood over the block with construction adhesive and mechanical fasteners. You could then reinstall the drywall. Attach the cleats and hang the cabinet. If you ever remove the cabinet it would be easy to tape and finish the wall.
26 October 2018 at 9:16 pm #552844Not sure what is your highest priority for using this. I’ve used an Estwing hatchet with the stacked leather handle for many years for about every task imaginable. It holds on edge well, but I’ve never tried to get it plane blade sharp. The handle is forged with the head and will never come loose. If you are going to depend on this out in the wild, you may want to consider one.
31 July 2018 at 10:51 pm #549761Here is my version using a 3/8” Veritas cutting iron. I inset the screw eye and then assembled the top and bottom-hence the dowels. I may try to find a knurled brass knob to to replace the wing nut at some point.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.4 June 2018 at 10:20 pm #548364Rob Cosman has a video on YouTube on building a travel tool chest. When in use everything is easily accessible and it is easily customized for the tools you have. He also describes what tools he takes on the road.
13 February 2018 at 11:08 am #470715I had the same problem as you. If the handles are in good shape, simply re-shape them. An old cabinet maker shared with me that all his saw handles were shaped the same as his hammer handle. Sometimes just rounding over all the edges makes quite a difference.
7 February 2018 at 12:20 am #463411Here is one made from hard maple. The iron is a Veritas 1/4”. Mortising the blade makes it very rigid. I screwed the two pieces together until everything was working and then glued them together. The dowels were installed to fill the screw holes.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.5 February 2018 at 10:52 am #462323I have made miter boxes at several different odd angles for different tasks-such as running trim araound raised panels on a stairway. I have never used plywood. I think it may tend to grab the saw. If you are going to be making lots of cuts, hardwood may be the way to go.
9 December 2017 at 12:31 pm #397809When I built my shop several years ago, I was using mostly machines. Since the layout was evolving, I wired a lighting circuit with several duplex outlets in the ceiling in the areas I expected to need lighting. I had a couple of fluorescent shop lights at the time that I hung from the joists. Over time, I switched to more hand tool woodworking and built my PS bench. The outlets allowed me to rearrange the light fixtures and add more lighting without re-wiring. I upgraded the fixtures near the bench with LED and used the older fixtures in the lesser used areas.
16 July 2017 at 12:39 am #313747I have been using Zinnser shellac-both clear and orange-for many years with good results. I always start with a “spit coat”, a 5:1 mix of denatured alcohol to shellac. I like it better than the seal coat. This spit coat can also be used between coats of stain to build up the finish and give it depth. There is a good book on finishing and furniture repair called “The Furniture Guys” that has a lot of different finishing methods.
11 April 2017 at 11:57 pm #311027Shelter Institute in Woolich, Maine sells timber framing tools. I did not see any large gouges on their website but you could contact them.
28 March 2017 at 2:05 pm #310634I have a couple of Lie-Nielsons and they really keep an edge for a long time. They came perfectly flat on the back and required minimum honing to get them ready for use. For me personally, the ergonomics are the biggest selling point for them. The handles fit in my hand perfectly. I have a preference for socket chisels so that is another thing to consider.
27 March 2017 at 4:58 pm #310594Seems to be a trend where people are using the skills and ideas that we’ve learned here and expanded on the “poor man’s tool” collection. Here is my version of a router plane in maple with a BLO finish. The iron is from Veritas as well.
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