roofusson
@roofusson
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Excuse me if I’m repeating myself, RE: the use of Paraffin wax. I used the same method asthe oil can. Just infused the material with heated wax. Works fine for me, with the benefit, that it is easier to locate on the bench than a stick of paraffin. Cheers Peter
Anthony, I would be interested in watching the mentioned tutorial. Could you paste it please Ta Peter
Paul’s oil can is grand. Just to find out it’s boundarys. I made a near identical can and rag, but filled it with heated paraffin wax. Have had good results, cheers Peter
Just out of interest, have a look at a Stanley # 40 Scrub Plane. The planes body is 1.5/8″ width. Of interest is that the blade is sharpened straight, Though the wide mouths outer edge is curved.
From going down many rabbit holes on this subject. I am un sure about using linseed oil. But I have found that many differn’t types of oils will do the job. The most unerveraly found one, that is also cheap. Is baby’s oil. most supermarkets, world wide.
A cautionary note. The oil is not the important aspect. It’s the method, the amount you use.
And the differn’t types of rubbers you need to remove the oil. Think the term is skimming off. would not state that, skimming off is the correct term.
To be kept in mind. French polishing is a life time learning trade in it’s self.
Not wishing to deter you, but there are means of adequately achieving your goals.
A you tube that I came across a while ago. The English Polisher blog, is worth a look at.
Good luck PeterYes a No.4 can be converted into a scrub plane. You do not need to remove the cap iron. Though if you can obtain a common thin common wooden coffer plane, the thinner (width wise ) are easier to find a wooden block plane. Cheaper and better option, though this is only a personal opnion, best of luck which ever route you take cheers Peter
In Australia, pharmacys carry them, Clark Rubber stores also. I use medial tape in the bottom of the canes to snug fit, if the rubbers are a bit larger than the ends of canes. Cheers Peter
out of interest, I looked up the chest on line. The first thing that I noticed is that it is advertised as a machinest tool chest, thus the reason for shallow storage areas. Have no vested interst in this product or company. Would suggest that you try to return it. Then look for what you wanted in the first place, you could be lucky to find what you need, cheaply. Live and learn is what we hear, best of luck Peter.
Just a suggestion, worth concideration.Instead of adding greece. Which attracts all sorts of metal fillings etc, which could halm your screw mechinism over time.
Concider, pulling apart your vice screw rod and engagments threads. Heat, not over board, and after cleaning apply as much parrafin wax as possibble. Excess will soon wear off, and your vice should be protected and lubricated, just a suggestion for concideration. cheers PeterSuggest you file the heads flat, as they often have a weld type line down centre.
Wood, cork, all will detiriate, break up, better to epoxy thick leather, if yo can’t find thick ( reasonably, not over board ) Go to op shop, buy just about ant type leather, glue together, with leather glue, until you have thickness required, then epoxy that to your clamps, simplist options are often the best, Best of luck PeterOnly guessing, the spring may need attention.I know through experence, to get new one, you will need it custom made. Good news Spring making companys exist,and can make one, not to expensive. Maby attempt to put a small chook at one end, on the off chance it has weakend a little. Again I am not writing via known knowlage,just a thought, good luck,cheers Peter
Ta for the info Craig, I was not writing through experience. I relayed a article I read on net some where.
By the by, another possibility may be charcoal containers. works with odours, theoretically, it may do the some job. I only came across them once in a Japanese multi products shop. Just a thought, Cheers Peter
