1. With these mortises, you use a knifewall to establish the exact length, whereas for the side frames and door, you just worked to pencil line. Is there are particular reason for this? Is accuracy in this dimension more critical for these joints than for the ones in the frames?

    On the other hand, I notice that here, you don’t use a guide block for positioning of the mortise, whereas for the frames you did. Again, is there are reason why things are done this way?

    1. Hello Tom,
      When cutting a mortise in a ploughed groove, it is very difficult to establish a knifewall. You certainly can work to a knifewall when possible.

      For shallow mortises, a guide is not necessary for alignment, which is why they are used in deeper mortises.

  2. hello WWMC team,
    I’m wondering what kind of wood Paul is using for the inner construction. I know the outside is curly maple & ripple sycamore but the darker wood he’s using to join the interior of this piece looks like maybe cherry, alder or some other darker wood (darker than the above two woods).

  3. Hello and Happy New Year,
    Could you please confirm the width of these mortices? Paul says 3/8” in the video, but the plans suggest 5/16”…
    I am really enjoying the project, by the way, and can’t thank Paul and the team enough for the skills I am developing.
    Many thanks,

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