Desktop Organiser: Episode 1
Posted 3 January 2020
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Making smaller projects like this one can elevate the demand for precise handwork and the constant throughout this opening video is to establish accuracy first off. Though this box is similar to one made in Paul’s foundational woodworking course, the design progresses to include all the tenets of drawer making and fitting. The box must be made to exacting tolerances, so Paul takes you one step at a time to show how he works to that end. You can choose any wood you like or have to hand, from Pine to Sapele and Oak to Spruce. If you are new to woodworking, you might prefer to practice some of the steps before you begin the whole box.
Brilliant thanks guys.
Any sizes for this please guys, or have I missed them.
Yes, please, we need measures for length, height and thickness of the components. Thanks and happy new year to Paul and all the WWM team.
Hi,
The drawings and cutting list are now available: https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/desktop-organiser/
Kind Regards,
Izzy
Many thanks Izzy
Thank you, Izzy!
Many thanks.
Thank you very much to you all, such wonderful people, we are so lucky, thanks!
I love the way Paul shows the simple bits of knowledge From years of experience
That most people just blow by. That’s what makes a true master craftsman!
Could you please provide a link to the box from the foundational course?
Hi Lauren,
I have linked this below:
https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/dovetail-boxes-project-info/ you can also find a beginner friendly version on Common Woodworking: https://commonwoodworking.com/courses/how-to-make-a-dovetailed-box/
Kind Regards,
Izzy
Will you be posting a sketch or shall we follow the original plans for the similar box without the drawer?
Hi,
The drawings and cutting list are now available: https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/desktop-organiser/
Kind Regards,
Izzy
I like these organisers, handy units to have. I have a spare length of maranti try to make this my next project.
Thank you Paul and Team
Happy new year to all at WWMC
Brilliant video! All the high quality photography we have come to expect from this team. Great sounds from VERY sharp tools paring crisply. Makes it all look so easy.
I am going away to have a serious sharpen-up before looking for some meranti or similar…
Thanks Paul!
Hi,
Thank you for your kind words! I will be sure to pass these on to our production team.
Kind Regards,
Izzy
I just want to say thank you Paul for sharing your knowledge and wisdom with us all. Happy New Year to you and your’s! God bless.
i so love your teaching. Happy New Year !!
Thanks – it’s almost a shame to glue up and cover the crisp well executed dovetails – I never get tired of watching what a sharp chisel is capable of delivering!
I appreciate the reuse of material destined for the landfill. The next time Paul does a “dumpster dive” (as we call it here in the US) I’d like to suggest taking a camera along and documenting the path taken to recover lumber and turni it into the four-square gorgeous stock such as the Meranti used in this project. Such an episode would demonstrate how we can be better stewards of our natural resources.
Happy New Year and may it become healthy and peaceful.
I like this project very much, because it’s a brilliant gift for those people who store their pens and pencils and things like that in mugs. Thank you! 🙂
E.
when is episode 2 due to come out?
Hi,
Episodes for this series will be released every other week, episode 2 is due out on the 17th January.
Kind Regards,
Izzy
I am so excited about this project ! ! !
Stupendo!!
Absolutely nice!
Thank you Paul and staff for the great camera work!
A good way of finding small off cuts like these is to watch out for company vans fitting new window’s. They mostly use this time of timber and off cuts like these just go to the tip.
OOP’S made a mistake, should be type not time.
Said you got the wood from a “skiff”? I’m not sure what that is.
A “skip” is is a large open-topped waste container. Don’t you wish the Brits spoke English LOL
Paul has been dumpster diving! 🙂
That Meranti looks like it’s great to work with hand tools. Is it related to Mahogany?
Hi,
Thank you for your question. I passed it on to Paul and his answer is below:
Not related in any way, but often erroneously called Meranti Mahogany which is incorrect.
Kind Regards,
Izzy
While Meranti is sometimes called Philippine Mahogany, there is no botanical relationship between the two woods other than the superficial color similarity. As Paul noted, it is considered a nice wood in its own right.
It’s really nice to go back through the basics for cutting dovetail joint again. This is going to make a nice gift and a great use of offcuts and scraps.
Paul, many thanks for all your presentations.
As always, you prefer to chop out the waste. Will you say why you do not first fretsaw it close to the line, and then pare away the last millimetre? In my experience, the sawing offers a saving of work – both methods involve chopping at the line, but the chopping only method also requires additional paring/chopping towards the line. I am curious why you choose to chop throughout.
Best wishes for 2020
Derek Cohen
Hi Derek,
I passed your question on to Paul and his answer is below:
As a boy, I was taught to use a coping saw to remove the bulk of the waste. I found it problematic because in the mid section, the grain often tears out where the chopping of the final breakthrough comes together. Usually this occurs because sawing away from the line leaves elongated sections that have leverage and the grain pulls out instead of paring. This never happens with my method, because the outer edges of the waste wood are supported to the edges of the very last cut. I think it’s also good to note that many novice woodworkers have difficulty working with coping saws and fret saws and cutting near enough to the line.
Kind Regards,
Izzy
Thanks Paul and Izzy
In my experience (30 years sawing and cutting dovetails), if there is a problem with the fretsaw method, it is a consequence of using a coping saw with very coarse teeth. On the other hand, a fine-toothed fretsaw (18-24 tpi) can produced a very different result.
In addition, I use a method that involved sawing only after the baseline has received a knife/chisel wall. This undercut at the baseline ensures that there will not be any spelching, and that the baseline does not move.
Pictorial here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ThroughDovetails3.html
Best wishes from Perth, Australia
Derek
Interesting method. I’m going to give it a try!
Thanks Derek!
I took your advice and got me a 5″ fretsaw with swivel function. Compared to the taller blade of my coping saw, its blade turns much easier in the kerf, saving me a lot of time – to say nothing about the risk of sawing below the line.
I sometimes chop dovetails as Paul teaches, but sometimes I use a coping saw to cut out waste to about a mil from my line and then pare down taking half a mil each pass. I have not tried a fret saw. Derek above and folk such as Rob Cosman (I think) like fret saws. Chris Schwarz somewhere or other makes a case for coping saws. The main advantages of the fret saw for dovetails are two. First, the narrow blade turns easily in the kerf made by the dovetail saw as Sven-Olof says. This means you can drop the blade right to the bottom of the kerf and saw straight across just a bit above your knife wall. Also, the fret saw makes a much finer cut than does a coping saw. Great. But people who use a coping saw do not try to turn the saw in the kerf. Instead they do two cuts. The first swoops from the top, say top right. down to the opposite side, in this case bottom left. It takes out a nice arc of wood which then makes it possible to put your coping saw bade near the bottom left so you can slice across just above your knife wall. Since it has coarser teeth than the fret saw, the two cuts are pretty fast, maybe as fast as the single cut from a fret saw. (Hm . . . I wonder if anyone has timed these things.) And the coarseness of the coping saw blade is not much of a problem if you plan to pare away the last mil anyway. Given the price of a fret saw compared to a coping saw, I am not sure whether the advantages, if there are any, are enough to warrant it, if your main interest is in clearing out waste from dovetails. On the other hand, it might be worth having both a coping saw and a fret saw for other things. Coping saws are much better for coping molding and fret saws are much better for more complex cuts such as the fancy designs cut on the inside of a board.
Oh, do take a look at Derek’s link on dovetails in his post if you have not done so. It and everything else on his website (as well as his postings at various other woodworking sites) are always very good.
I’ve done something that is a mixture of Paul’s technique and a coping saw. The waste is sawn out with a coping saw, staying about 1/16 to 1/8″ off the layout line. Next, I work to the layout line with a chisel in a number of passes, usually around three, but I work from both sides going only about 1/2 way through the thickness from either side. This way, there is always material supporting the chiseling so that the tear out that Paul doesn’t like doesn’t occur. On the other hand, since I’ve used the coping saw to take out the bulk, the chisel won’t move the line. Regarding the broken fibers, It’s not as foolproof as Paul’s method but seems to work reasonably well. The most important thing is to have the chisel define the final dimension via the knifed layout line.
Is part two coming out or did I miss something?
Part one just came out yesterday (3 January) and the free projects are typically spaced 1-2 weeks apart.
Hi,
Episodes for this series will be released every other week, episode 2 is due out on the 17th January.
Kind Regards,
Izzy
Paul, great weekend project. What is the brand of that lovely saw (looks like a Gents saw) that you are using for the dovetails? Could the same saw also be used for small tenons? Thanks, Bill
Crown of Sheffield
I tried to include a link to Paul’s blog but it got removed from my reply. Go to paulsellers dot com and search for “Crown of Sheffield” and you’ll find his blog article on it.
Amazing camera work and top quality photo. A real pleasure to be able to enjoy Paul’s work to such detail.
Looking forward to the rest of the series.
I only have access to red oak at this point but I am excited to give it a shot. I think it will look great whatever wood you use. Good bones and all of that.
Hello everyone,looking at the drawings there is a discrepancy with the dimensions on page 1 of the drawings and the cutting list. Should the 11 1/2 be 10 1/2 or the 12 1/4 be 13 1/4. It may stop someone being too. eager and cutting their pieces too short
Hi,
Paul says:
Both measurements are correct.
If you look at the drawing on page 1 it says 10 ½”, then it add ½” to each end making it 11 ½”. The overhang to each side of the box is ⅜” making the lid and base 12 ¼”.
Kind Regards,
Izzy
Hi, I have a question…Is there a reason Paul chisels out the pin recess rather then cutting most out with a fret saw? Is that something that’s just more enjoyable?
Hi John,
Paul says:
If it’s not enjoyable, it definitely becomes more enjoyable. It’s superbly accurate and I find that the fret saw often results in inaccuracies.
Kind Regards,
Izzy
Hi, is there a use for skew chisels to cut or pare the dovetails? I have heard that some people suggest them for the dovetail corners. Thanks and congrats on the great content.
Hi Carlos,
I passed your question on to Paul and he said:
I have a pair of skewed chisels as described but never use them because they’re so unnecessary. I certainly would never buy one and technically you would need to buy two to get into the two opposing corners.
Kind Regards,
Izzy
That is what I was thinking.
Thanks for the quick reply Izzy and Paul.
Hej Carlos,
1:4 (14 degrees) dovetails are apparently en vogue. For those, skewed chisels are perhaps of some relevance.
Though by no means necessary, fishtail chisels are quite handy for clearing out the corners of both the tails and, particularly, the pins. One does not need them in pairs.
@charliez
You may do so and some people do in fact use chisels that they have ground to a skew-shape.
But think about it – you’ll need two chisels, one left and one right, plus one ground straight. That’s three chisels to do some simple cuts – Is it worth it?
The secret to cutting into a sloping corner on a dovetail is to have a narrow bevel edged chisel that is as thin at the bevel-end as possible. Sharpen straight across and ensure that the corners of the cutting edge are pin sharp; next clean the edges of the sides of the chisel on each side for the first inch or 25 mm on your sharpening stones so that you have a crisp clean edge that slides into the corner of the dovetail and pare across in a straight line on your final cuts.
Good luck!
Thanks for the advice YrHenSaer, appreciate it.
I’m a bit jealous how nice the dove-tails fit directly buy i’m improving mine.
Just wandering, are you using a special knife for this?
Hi, is the dovetail ratio 1:6 or 1:8?
1:7 with almost complete certainty.
Thank you