Wall Hung Tool Cabinet – episode 7

Wall_Hung_Tool_Cabinet_7

This is an episode in a paid series. Want to watch it? You just need to sign up as a paid member and you can enjoy this video and many other videos we think you will love.

We are now ready to progress the frame by ploughing the groove for the panel, before laying out and cutting the haunched mortise and tenons.

Posted in ,

36 Comments

  1. redwood on 6 January 2016 at 5:02 pm

    Thanks for this one guys

  2. uumikew on 6 January 2016 at 6:13 pm

    What is with the red marking knife? Did you paint it to make it easier to find on your bench? I did that to mine but used orange instead. 🙂

  3. Samuel Twining on 6 January 2016 at 6:36 pm

    Another wonderful video. I really look forward to Wednesdays and learning from a Master!

  4. gallarotti on 6 January 2016 at 7:48 pm

    Hi Paul,

    Another great video, with a great quote in it that really resonates with me:
    That’s what you want when you go through life… You want people to say: “he cared”.

    That said, maybe I missed this in a previous video, I found interesting how you mounted your router on a piece of wood. How to prevent it from scratching the piece you are working on? Is there a video where you show this interesting mod?

    Thanks!
    // Francesco

  5. petervalcanas on 6 January 2016 at 9:07 pm

    @ Mike Whitman
    Paul had mentioned in an earlier blog that he had purchased this new knife and I was about to ask him how he liked it. I can’t remember the brand of the knife.

    Pete

  6. Eddy Flynn on 6 January 2016 at 9:18 pm

    why would anyone do it differently, I feel quite jealous of the younger generation that I was in my late 40’s before being taught the “correct” way to do these tasks and they can get this info whilst still young enough to get a lifetimes use out of it, thanks team.

  7. SharpPencil on 6 January 2016 at 9:52 pm

    Such an amazing tutorial I even felt myself leaning forward to blow out the dust?

    Paul can I take this opportunity to wish you a belated happy birthday for the fourth…………thank you again for all you have taught me…..John (two vices)

  8. wotaewer on 7 January 2016 at 12:22 pm

    Hello Mr. Sellers,

    could you please elaborate on your choice as to why you created the frame instead of using a full width board? Shouldn’t there be more stress due to different shrinking in the sides of the cabinet and the frame?

    As an overall suggestion: In learning woodworking it would seem helpful if you could explain your decision making process more often. Sometimes you say things are best done a certain way – however if you don’t understand the abstract rule/guideline/thinking behind it – it’s hard to apply it in other scenarios or project.

    Thank you very much

    • jcontract on 9 January 2016 at 3:38 pm

      Andrej,
      I was wondering the same thing. Are there certain advantages to creating this panel over a solid divider? Or are we doing this more as an exercise (as Paul mentioned) as training for the doors? Would love to know the “why” as well s the “how”.

      • pigiron on 10 January 2016 at 6:10 pm

        He said just that. Frame and panel is over-kill, as well as chopping mortises to accommodate it. It’s all an exercise to increase our skills and bag of tricks, and practice for making paneled doors.

      • Paul SellersTeam Member on 13 January 2016 at 9:00 am

        I try to create the extras to practice as it makes everyone go for the higher bar. It is not just busy work but constant reinforcement.

    • Paul SellersTeam Member on 13 January 2016 at 9:20 am

      Are you talking abut the back frame?

      • wotaewer on 13 January 2016 at 5:15 pm

        I meant the frame you were building in this episode. The one that seperates the drawers from the rest of the cabinet

  9. pigiron on 7 January 2016 at 9:10 pm

    Hi Paul. I am enjoying building this cabinet along with you. Lots of new tricks and skills for me, and as usual, your teaching is superb! I have a question about one of the frame pieces. It appears in episode 7, that the rear frame piece is too long so far. It looks to be as long as the front piece including its thru tenons (32″). Will we be cutting it to length so it fits from dado to dado, or will we be chopping additional mortises in the back of the side pieces as we’ve done in the front of the side pieces? Thanks much!

    • pigiron on 14 January 2016 at 12:23 am

      Episode 8 answered my question. I never thought ahead well enough to realize that cutting the back frame piece to length AFTER it was assembled and glued would give us a perfect place to hit with a hammer on either end to disassemble the frame–without damaging the parts that matter. As usual I appreciate learning these cool little convenient tricks.

  10. knightlylad on 7 January 2016 at 9:44 pm

    Thank you for the lesson.

  11. hgwilliams on 8 January 2016 at 12:43 am

    Paul used a metal plow plane with a 1/4″ blade for the frame and panel groove and a matching 1/4″ chisel for the mortises. The wooden plow plane I have has blades that are just over 1/4″ and just under 1/4″. Apparently this is typical for wooden plows and it makes it clumsy to cut a mortise of matching width. Should I simply cut a 1/4″ mortise in the middle of the oversized groove or try to match the groove width? Or would it make more sense to cut an undersized groove and let the mortise sides extend past the sides of the groove? Any one of these presents problems. How would an 18th century cabinetmaker have approached this? Thanks for any suggestions.

    • Craig on 8 January 2016 at 2:08 am

      Harold,
      I’d file / grind down the oversized 1/4″ blade to an exact 1/4″, matching the chisel. A coarse diamond plate sharpening stone would probably work best. You shouldn’t have to do the whole length, just about an inch should do it.
      Best,
      Craig

      • hgwilliams on 15 January 2016 at 4:42 pm

        Thanks Craig. I was reviewing the bookshelves project just now and see that Paul addressed this issue there. In that project he put a 3/8″ mortise in a 5/16″ groove. He used his mortise guide to pare the sides of the groove to 3/8″ and this seemed reasonably straightforward. I’ll try this next time.

    • ehisey on 13 January 2016 at 8:33 pm

      Based on Pauls making the mortises in the front board, it would seem best to go undersized on the groove, and the make the mortise holes the correct size. Paul used the mortise guide an 1″ chisel to pair the side of the groove back to the correct sizes.

  12. piper on 8 January 2016 at 2:18 am

    I had to go get the wife to come in and watch at the 35 min mark when Paul says

    “this could be a bookcase, this could be be… ooooh,….”, “this will end up in the house instead of in the workshop”.

    She laughed as hard as I did when Paul said that…. Priceless, Thanks Paul.
    Ted

  13. sodbuster on 12 January 2016 at 4:33 am

    I really enjoyed the sensitivity to the wood & feel & sound during the fitting of the mortise & tenon. Great lesson to keep looking & listening, and patience too!

  14. Mitchell on 12 January 2016 at 8:08 pm

    Paul, I’m just curious if you would consider building this tool cabinet using ply and veneer? Wouldn’t that take the worry out the bottom two drawers not fitting right in the future as a result of wood movement in the sides and bottom?

    • Paul SellersTeam Member on 13 January 2016 at 8:20 am

      You should always remember that solid wood will always outlive plywood. Dovetailed corners don’t come out well with any manmade board either. I am not sure what the concern is. I have made my drawers to hit the back and so should the sides shrink the drawer might protrude a millimetre or two or it could expand and the drawer recess a millimetre or two. My experience is that wood will in general be just fine on a project this shallow. I am doing it this way to give the wood a chance. Now then, the point is a good one and one that was taken care of very simply on most furniture pieces where there might be counterpoised grain orientation surrounding drawers. If you live in an area of constant change, this is a definite consideration. In the UK we have relatively constant levels of humidity. Not high and never low. Having lived in different parts of Texas for 20+ years the differences can be phenomenal between east and west parts if the state. You can add two small blocks 1/4″ x 1″ x 1″ (plywood works well for this) to the bottom board of the cabinet just under the drawer and the thickness of the drawer front from the front edge of the cabinet and to each side of the drawer. This was very common and still is even in industry. That way the drawer need not go to the back of the cabinet or you can use both. The blocks can be simply glued and clamped or, as was the most common, nailed with small pins.

      • Mitchell on 22 January 2016 at 4:14 pm

        Thank you for explaining this, Paul. I live in southern Ontario, Canada which has massive swings in humidity over the course of a day, let alone a year, so wood movement is really a concern of mine.

        Mitchell

  15. ljasinskipl on 13 January 2016 at 4:55 pm

    Hi Paul. Is there an alternative techniqe to do all the rabbets than a plough plane? Or maybe some kind of poor man’s plough plane?

  16. joemonahan on 27 December 2016 at 12:39 am

    Would a Stanley No. 50 be able to plow the groves as Paul’s plane does here?

  17. Larry Geib on 22 January 2017 at 2:42 am

    Yes, if you have the right width cutters.

  18. Michael Ostrander on 22 October 2017 at 4:45 am

    When plowing the grooves for dust panel, in the drawer assembly, it seems the simple solution to registration and negotiating grain issues would be to plow the front board first and then just use the same registration face for the remaining 3 pieces. The mistake here is to mark the tops first. Simply plow the groove first and then put all of the registration faces either down or up depending on what you had to do with the front piece.

Leave a Comment

You must be logged in to post a comment.