Workbench: Episode 7

Workbench Episode 7 Keyframe

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The well board is next, and a rebate is cut in either side. This enables it to be inserted in the grooves that are cut in the benchtop and apron using a plough plane.

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  1. Brian Miller on 26 January 2018 at 11:16 am

    Coming together very nicely. I find myself getting up extra early to watch on release days before going to work (4 am U.S.). It’s a killer having to wait all day knowing it’s here if I don’t. Thanks.

  2. Simon Wilcox on 26 January 2018 at 11:29 am

    Do you have any advice for keeping a vertical wall with the rebate plane ?
    I find it very difficult to keep the plane on track and the fence starts to track off the face of the piece and I end up with a sloping wall. Paul doesn’t seem to exert much sideways pressure to keep the fence registered. I was wondering if there’s a trick to it that I have yet to master ?

    • Craig on 26 January 2018 at 1:54 pm

      1. Make sure the cutting edge is square.
      2. The edge of the iron needs to be set to protrude slightly from the plane side ie. not flush with the plane side. About the thickness of a business card or so, just enough to catch your fingernail.

    • jakegevorgian on 26 January 2018 at 10:41 pm

      If you see that each pass gives you a step that goes towards the outside edge, then make sure the side of the blade slightly protrudes, as Craig said.

      Also try to fix the stepped cuts with a bullnose plane before going forward or afterwards.

    • Terry Dixon on 27 January 2018 at 10:28 am

      On the outside face of a no 78 rebate plane there is a small cutter which slices the timber before the blade. Although this is intended for use when cutting a rebate across the grain it can help along the grain as long as you don’t let it follow any antagonistic grain direction, oh, and keep your blade sharp and finely set.

      • Mike Tolman on 28 January 2018 at 3:41 pm

        or one could just run a marking gauge along the length prior to cutting perhaps

  3. Mathieu Peckel on 26 January 2018 at 11:42 am

    Great episode! Thank you!

    If you don’t have a plow plane, is a chisel and a router plane good to do the groove (as you would make a dado or mortise) ?

    Another thing, why would you have to glue the benchtop to the apron if you’re screwing it down in place from the bottom ? Can’t you just screw it from the side on the spots that are left when the vise is installed ?

    • Philip Adams on 26 January 2018 at 2:35 pm

      Hello Mathieu,
      You could plow with a chisel and outer if you are careful, or you could just leave the well board un-rebated. It does add some solidity if you to fit it using a groove though.

      Gluing them to each other makes sure they do not shrink or expand separately and adds solidity to the whole. So that is why we glue it.

    • Donald Kreher on 26 January 2018 at 6:27 pm

      Paul has a video on making a poor man’s rebate plane using a chisel for the iron.

      • ballinger on 3 February 2018 at 10:25 am

        Yeah that rebate plane is awesome I’m going to make one but I think he said plow plane so it’s probably a chisel job which I’ve done before and it’s actually faster to do than you would think. Instead of rebating the well board I suppose you could taper the underside with a scrub plane? Like when fitting panels in door construction.

    • Terry Dixon on 27 January 2018 at 11:07 am

      On Paul’s original bench series (on Youtube) he does not rebate the well board. It is much thicker than the one in this seies and he uses cross rebates to drop the board over the leg frames which adds to the rigidity. This was how I built my bench and I can confirm it’s excellent rigidity. Link:

  4. Mark Busby on 26 January 2018 at 12:07 pm

    Hi Paul/Philip, this series is great something to get you teeth into, N.b Im having some problems playing the videos Ep 7 they start then screen go’s blank, any idea’s Philip .Thank you Mark (UK Surrey)

    • Philip Adams on 26 January 2018 at 2:40 pm

      Hello @markbusby,
      Strange.. could you contact us through the contact tab at the top of the page if you are still having this problem with the details of the type of computer and browser you are using and we will go form there. I will delete this comment in a week to help keep the comments free from non-woodworking questions.

      • David Buckwalter on 26 January 2018 at 9:11 pm

        I have same problem, not just this episode. Either hade wait or stated again and dragged the time bar to where it stopped. Am using IPad Pro with Apple browser.

        • Richard Masters on 27 January 2018 at 1:54 am

          Yep, me too! My remedy is to click the ‘Pause’ button followed by clicking the ‘Start’ button. Strange phenomenon.

          • Terry Dixon on 27 January 2018 at 11:12 am

            Me too, win10 + Chrome

    • deanbecker on 26 January 2018 at 5:47 pm

      mark busby, i also have the same problem ,, i have traced it to my ISP ,and the streaming rate on the video
      when you first go to the video before you start it there is a cog wheel at the end of the timer bar ,click on that and it will give you various speeds to stream at ,out here I have to use 360 p and the video is usually set at 1080 or 760 this only happens on i pads and phones ,seems like i don’t often get the auto setting on the mobile, which is a setting on the laptop.
      you can also set the video to run in slow mo or speed it up with the cog
      hopes this helps

      • Mark Busby on 26 January 2018 at 8:07 pm

        Thx Dean contacted Philip also, he said the same adjustment could do the trick, it did, just watched Ep 7, Thank you Dean/Philip

  5. Paul on 26 January 2018 at 12:13 pm

    We’re moving house soon. The new place will have a garage or preferably a workshop. This will be the first thing I make. I can hardly wait to get started!

  6. Graham Hobson on 26 January 2018 at 1:53 pm

    I’m confused about something.

    In the previous video we bolted the aprons to the legs “so that we can dismantle the bench”. Now we are gluing the bench top to the apron.

    • Craig on 26 January 2018 at 1:58 pm

      When being disassembled, the top and apron come off as one “L” shaped piece.

    • Alan on 28 January 2018 at 12:21 am

      Screws/Screwbolts might be better for fixing the Bench-Top to the Apron. Plugged in the same way. Then you could completely dismantle it if needed. A permanent “L”-shaped component that long & heavy, won’t transport easily.

  7. Mike Tolman on 26 January 2018 at 1:54 pm

    I do own a plough plane with an assortment of blades but I don’t own a rebate plane unfortunagely. i was wondering if I could use this to cut the rebate in the well board, wholley or partially (perhaps finishing off with a chisel)?

    • Philip Adams on 26 January 2018 at 2:42 pm

      Hello Mark, you certainly can if you have a wide cutter or do it in several passes. The other option is to the a poor mans rebate plane which is in our video library.

      • Mike Tolman on 26 January 2018 at 5:56 pm

        Thanks Phillip. I’ll test both these options and chose the best performing. I had forgotten about the poor man’s rebate plane. It looks like it works exceedingly well. I’ll can use a plough plane blade instead of a chisel. Thanks

      • Terry Dixon on 27 January 2018 at 11:47 am

        Use the plough plane to make two cuts, one from the edge and the other from the face, you will lose support on the second cut as you are nearly through and this can be finished in all sorts of ways such as a chisel, a knife or even a tenon saw to finish the cut.

  8. carlos reyes on 26 January 2018 at 3:19 pm

    I completed the bench in 9 days, 8hours a day. Sadly using low-quality mexican Pine from Oaxaca because that is all I could find in Yucatan Mexico. Here are the pictures in this album

    • carlos reyes on 26 January 2018 at 3:22 pm

      Had to improvise the wellboard because my rebate and plough plane are still on their way from england , thanks to ebay

      • Alan Taylor on 26 January 2018 at 7:01 pm

        Carlos, that looks fantastic — well done, sir! I bought my lumber just a week ago — and it’s still acclimating to my shop — another two weeks and it should be stable enough to begin work. Buen hecho, hermano — sigue para adelante!

      • Erin on 3 February 2018 at 2:21 pm

        Well done! What was the first thing you made using it?

  9. jarkema on 26 January 2018 at 3:30 pm

    I built my workbench from your YouTube videos a couple years ago. It turned out well, but it’s nice to see your upgrades.
    My condolences on the use of the modern B&D workmate. I have this one and one i bought in the 70’s which is much stronger and heavier. Always fun to watch you work.

  10. Colin Edmondson on 26 January 2018 at 3:57 pm

    Both the rabbet & plough planes were listed as “optional but highly recommended” in the tools section of the plans & cutting list. For those of us without them, is the best option to use the batten & quadrant method of fitting the wellboard in the bench featured in ‘The Artisan Course’ book or is there an alternative way of creating the grooves & rebates?

    • Philip Adams on 26 January 2018 at 4:54 pm

      Hi Colin,
      I’d suggest the batten and quadrant method.

    • Glenn Kuffel on 27 January 2018 at 5:56 pm

      Hi Colin,

      I don’t have the rabbet and plough plane either. What is the “batten and quadrant” method?

      many thanks,

      • Philip Adams on 31 January 2018 at 5:15 pm

        Hello Glen. For the batten and quadrant method, fit a battens on the inside of the apron and a 2×1 on the bottom inside of the benchtop that the wellboard sits on along with the bearers. You can then screw up through these into the wellboard to hold it in place. Then fit a quadrant in the corners on the wellboard so it is easier to clean it out.

        You can also fit the wellboard by fitting as in the old bench. It just needs a thicker wellboard to allow the housings:

  11. Mac McC on 26 January 2018 at 4:15 pm

    Paul, Congratulations! Excellent presentation on use of hand tools AND how to build a workbench from scratch! Many tips and tricks of the trade included. Thank you!

  12. orizzonte on 26 January 2018 at 4:23 pm

    Looking really nice. Shouldn’t there be a deeper groove (or more wiggle room for the well board) to compensate for the wood movement as the benchtop / well board could expand? I am always scared about the wood moving.

    Best regards,


  13. Adomas Vysniauskas on 26 January 2018 at 5:02 pm

    Oh goodness, I was hoping so much that this episode would have a vise fitting part in it.

  14. David B on 26 January 2018 at 5:02 pm

    I can’t help but feel like 2 years after making my first bench I’ll need to upgrade to version 2.0–I really like the improvements in construction–notably the wellboard assembly.

    Question–when fitting the wellboard, Paul only used a lag screw on one side of the bench. Is it not necessary to do the same on the other side?

    • Terry Dixon on 27 January 2018 at 11:53 am

      I built one some time ago as well but I like the original method of fitting the thicker well board as the rebates on the underside of the well board sit nicely over the leg frames giving extra rigidity not to mention the extra weight to add to the stability.

    • Philip Adams on 31 January 2018 at 2:26 pm

      Hello David,
      You don’t get any outward movement at the top of the apron on the other side as it is glued to the benchtop.

  15. Tad on 26 January 2018 at 5:52 pm

    I noticed Paul adjusting the blade on the plow and rebate planes while working. I understand they move a bit, but adjusting without recalibrating, doesn’t it change the depth of the cut. Or should I ask how do you reset it to the same exact setting on the fly?

    • David B on 26 January 2018 at 6:34 pm

      I believe he was just adjusting the depth/aggressiveness of the cut. He did not adjust the fence/depth stop.

      • Tad on 26 January 2018 at 7:18 pm

        David, I understand that, but when you adjust the blade it in itself changes the depth of cut. For a deeper cut, you are pushing the blade away from the sole and the depth stop (which is attached to the sole. The blade moves independently of the sole

        • Stijn Bossuyt on 26 January 2018 at 7:24 pm

          I don’t think is matters all that much. When you take a heavy cut, the blade is still protruding very slightly, at best 1/4 mm. The blade depth is therefore not taken into account when setting the depth stop.

  16. JEREMY SMITH on 26 January 2018 at 6:54 pm

    “It’s more luck than good management.” Bull butter! You’ve done it so long its muscle memory by now. I very much like the bench.

  17. Stijn Bossuyt on 26 January 2018 at 7:20 pm

    Interesting approach to make the rebate. I couldn’t wait for the videos, so I completed my workbench already, but I made the rebate with the wellboard laying flat. Of course, I used a completely different setting on the rebate plane, because of this. Is there a particular reason to make the rebate with the wellboard standing up on its side?

    • Leland Purvis on 27 January 2018 at 6:12 pm

      I was wondering the very same thing. My instinct would have been to do it flat like you did, but Paul went down from the edge….

    • Philip Adams on 31 January 2018 at 4:33 pm

      You can do it either way, but Paul prefers going from the edge as it means the rebate is not as deep to cut.

      • Stijn Bossuyt on 31 January 2018 at 7:10 pm

        Thanks! Makes sense. You do need to make wider shavings, but I guess that’s easier than a deeper cut.

  18. Bas Cost Budde on 26 January 2018 at 9:46 pm

    At 31:55 I get the impression you concentrate on the plane of sawing so much that it almost becomes visible. That may be just me.
    It’s something I keep in mind as an answer to the classroom question “why do we have to learn geometry?” and allows for a small word play too. It’s probably easier to saw what you already saw in your mind.

  19. patchedupdemon on 26 January 2018 at 11:04 pm

    Would be great if you are planning to do a an episode on how to add a draw to the bench,and maybe a cupboard benethe it

  20. TCH2017 on 26 January 2018 at 11:50 pm

    Dumb question here but when done building this bench and you find that it wobbles what can be done to level the legs?

    • Ecky H on 27 January 2018 at 12:14 am

      If the floor is dead flat, then the solution is easy: put some cardboard pieces or wedges under the feet of the workbench until it stops rocking. Then put a pencil parallel to the floor (simplest: if you need only one or two millimeters cardboards to stop that rocking, the radius of the pencil will be enough) and mark all legs at the same height. Then shorten the legs to that line.
      If the floor isn’t dead flat, then it depends whether you want to change the position of the workbench from time to time or if you’ve found the final position. In the last case I’d either curtail the non-rocking legs until the top of the bench is level or glue a piece of wood under the rocking legs and plane it down until the top is level in all directions.

      Hope that helps,


    • Ecky H on 27 January 2018 at 9:16 pm
  21. David Loeffler on 27 January 2018 at 12:32 am

    When gluing the apron to the bench top has it ever occurred that the glue squeeze-out glued the apron to the leg or the bench top to the bearer?

    • Erin on 28 January 2018 at 3:04 am

      I am wondering the same thing. I don’t know if I’ll ever need to break this bench down, but I’d like to keep that option open. I wonder if putting a little wax paper on the bearer before gluing would be a good idea for those of us who haven’t mastered the art of mess-free glue ups.

    • Philip Adams on 31 January 2018 at 3:16 pm

      Hello David and others,
      Shouldn’t be an issue if you don’t overdo the glue, but wax paper sounds like a good workaround.

  22. trevermccall on 27 January 2018 at 1:42 am

    Any chance of a blog entry or video discussing how to add a small drawer to the apron? I’m wondering more about how to build and integrate the supports inside for the drawer to slide and sit on, than actually building a drawer and fitting it to the opening, since Paul has discussed this in other projects. Any information would be appreciated. Please and thank you, of course. (smile)

    • Nicholas Newble on 27 January 2018 at 7:19 am

      This would be my big request too, even an extra Special Episode about fitting a drawer, unless of course that is already the plan for the last episode, but seems unlikely as it stands as the materials needed aren’t there.

    • Philip Adams on 31 January 2018 at 3:37 pm

      Hi Guys,
      We are considering if and how we can include this. Will let you know when we work out what we’re going to do.

  23. joeleonetti on 27 January 2018 at 4:59 am

    The plough plane certainly encountered a lot of knots while making the groove. Out of curiosity, did Paul sharpen it up before he used it on the second piece in this video?

    Just trying to get a feel how often a plough plane blade gets sharpened. I’ve watched enough of Paul’s other videos and done enough wood working to have a feel for chisels and a number 4 plane.

    • Philip Adams on 31 January 2018 at 3:41 pm

      The way that I gauge it is that if I’m not getting a clean cut and it isn’t pulling itself into the wood, it needs sharpening. Can certainly make a big difference with tough grain.

  24. Larry Geib on 27 January 2018 at 7:53 am
  25. David Wood on 27 January 2018 at 8:28 am

    I have a #78 Stanley and a WS rebate plane both of which clog at the mouth after only 4 passes, which I need to clear before proceeding. Is there something I can do to rectify this problem or is it a common event with these planes.

    • Larry Geib on 27 January 2018 at 11:21 am


      It is pretty common but there are things you can do to make things better.
      1) check that the lever cap is making full contact with the iron if not, hone the leadin edge until it is. There should be no gap at the front.

      2) check if the leadin edge of the cap is excessively blunt. If it is, file it to a sharper edge. The wing on the right side is supposed to deflect shaving to the left. You can tilt the cap so the leading edge is a bit further to the right. That may be all you need to do, if you are lucky.

      3) the thin part of the body casting is also supposed to deflect shavings left. Sand any rough areas.
      If you are brave, you can make the bottom edge of that part of the casting so it isn’t so blunt.

      After you have done the appropriate tuneups, paint the bare metal.

      And if you can find a lever cap for a Stanley 289, it is better desi

  26. Leland Purvis on 27 January 2018 at 6:15 pm

    Phil, when Paul went to do the rebate on the well-board, he went in from the edge, rather than laying the board down flat and rebating in from the bottom face of the well-board. Why? Just preference? Is there an advantage to this I’m missing?

    • Larry Geib on 27 January 2018 at 8:58 pm

      Possiblygrain direction. You don’t want to plane into rising grain.

    • Philip Adams on 31 January 2018 at 4:34 pm

      You can do it either way, but Paul prefers going from the edge as it means the rebate is not as deep to cut.

  27. callewennersten on 27 January 2018 at 6:57 pm

    Hi Paul and gang.

    What make and model is the vice, and where can it be purchased?

    Fanx, Calle

    • Erin on 27 January 2018 at 11:20 pm

      It’s an eclipse 9 inch quick release vise. They’re available on Amazon and Highland Woodworking.

      • callewennersten on 28 January 2018 at 6:44 pm

        Fanx Erin.

        Anyone who knows where in Europe this is available? Amazon won’t ship it to me and also it’s unnecessarily costly from US.


        • Craig on 28 January 2018 at 11:14 pm

          These are available from Dieter Schmidt

          Same vise but made in Europe.
          Hope this helps.

          • Craig on 28 January 2018 at 11:19 pm

            The vise works differently than the Eclipse in that the release is by turning the handle instead of a ” trigger” release.

  28. abtuser on 28 January 2018 at 6:46 am

    I use stands on one or both ends when I plane long pieces using my Workmate. Makes a big difference in control and reducing effort as the pressure from planing makes the wood dive, the stands reduce or stop that.

  29. bigaxe on 29 January 2018 at 1:11 am

    Paul’s greatest video series was his work bench build in his back yard. I was struggling with my wood working. And that series put every thing into focus for me. It showed me Just how simple and satisfying wood working can be. I put my power router in a closet and never used it since. I use my power planer and table saw to dimension lumber but other then that no electrons touch my work.
    I built my current work bench out of spruce 2 x4

  30. Tom Davies on 29 January 2018 at 12:07 pm

    This episode answers a question I’ve had since the beginning of the series – will anything be added to help stop the table from skewing and twisting – the answer is that the tops are screwed from below through the bearer.

    One question – if I will be assembling and disassembling my bench a lot (ie every weekend I use it), will these screws be adequate over time? Will the thread in the wood wear out?

    As an alternative to screws, what about drilling a hole right through the bearers, right to the top, and then hitting a dowel through the hole – which could then be hammered out when the bench needs disassembling?

    Another thought was to cut two rebates in the benchtop, (much like the rebates in the apron), cut to the width of the bearers, so that the bearers register snugly into the worktop?

  31. chason Hayes on 30 January 2018 at 2:34 am

    I have a problem with my bench top wobbling about 1/4″ when I place it on the bearers. I have checked for twist in the bench top with 4′ winding sticks and it is dead on. I suspect one of the bearers (or cross piece under it) is a little off. Do you have any suggestions to fix this? I can balance it out with a small shim next to the apron but was wondering if there was a better way. I would also like any suggestions as to what I did wrong to cause it.

    • Erin on 3 February 2018 at 2:17 pm

      Mine had some wobble because my bench to wasn’t perfectly thicknessed over the legs. I had to take off a small amount from one area and the wobble resolved. Flip your bench top over and check for wind right over the legs. The rest doesn’t matter so much, but right over the legs has to be perfect.

  32. Larry Geib on 30 January 2018 at 4:54 am

    Does h same issue occur in all four orientations of the top?

  33. Farred on 31 January 2018 at 11:25 am

    Is there a reason for rabbeting both the well board and apron/top? It seems no less structurally sound to only rebate the apron/top and leave the well board the full 1 inch, and less work.

    • David Webber on 3 February 2018 at 12:20 pm

      I think that would compromise the leg housing dados on the apron side. On the bench top side it would leave the bottom of the wellboaed unsupported

  34. Patrick Sadr on 31 January 2018 at 4:58 pm

    Paul can’t wait for the “final touch” installation of the vice. Been looking for a vid on your YouTube channel and such and only was able to come across a blog you did about it with words and pics…….

    I just finished my workbench and am awaiting the final step of attaching a woodworkers vice also!! Can’t wait………you are the man….

    They don’t make men like they used to, you are one of them my friend. Keep up the good work and thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent!!

  35. Erin on 5 February 2018 at 8:55 pm

    At what point is it recommended to shorten the workbench. I’m 5’7, and went with the 38 inch height. I notice as I’m planing my wellboard (with it clamped to the bench top) I’m struggling to plane the far side of the board comfortably. In the past, I’ve only planed wood on a folding table or my coffee table, so obviously the height difference is significant, but I found myself standing on my tippy toes to get to the back side. My shoulders were also aching, but that could be because I’m using different muscles than before. The height does seem ideal for detail work though, so I’m hesitant to make any changes right away–especially since its a rather permanent change. Is there anything in particular I should watch for to help me know for sure if I need to alter the height? Thanks

    • Philip Adams on 7 February 2018 at 2:55 pm

      Hello Erin, best thing to do is to test it out by standing on a block to see if that is beneficial for certain tasks. It can take a little time to get used to a higher bench height, and this is a good way to test it out.

  36. Antonio Santos on 11 February 2018 at 1:32 pm

    Is there a particular reason for fitting the well board with this method, rather than using housing dado joints under the leg frames, like in the youtube series years ago? Doesn’t the housing dado offers more overall strength?

    • Philip Adams on 12 February 2018 at 4:51 pm

      The reason Paul used housing dados in the other bench is that the stock was particularly thick. The method in this bench allows for more expansion and shrinkage more readily. Neither is really stronger.

  37. Keith Walton on 13 February 2018 at 1:12 am

    I’m looking at my plough plane wondering if I could just use the biggest cutter to make the rebates as well?

  38. Larry Geib on 13 February 2018 at 1:19 am

    Possible. Make sure the cutter is sharp, and mind that the grain direction is favorable.

    Since a plough plane doesn’t have a sole, you have to give the plane some help with planning how you make the cut.

    • Ed on 13 February 2018 at 5:02 am

      If I’m thinking right, even if the plow plane blade is narrow, you could use it to define the wall of the rebate and then clear out with your #4 or #5 as long as the groove you plowed is at least as wide as the distance between the edge of your #4 blade and the edge of the sole. You might whack a bunch out with a chisel after the plow, then just get the final surface with the #4 or #5. The trick will be getting the rebate will perpendicular with the plow. I’ve never tried this but would at least give it a try on some scrap.

  39. wdelliott on 20 August 2018 at 10:43 am

    Could I inquire about the screw selection for fitting the top to the bearers? The ubiquity of dry wall screws leads to the temptation to use those, but their tinsel strength is limited. Paul appears to not use dry wall screws but a comment on his screw selection would be helpful.

  40. abtuser on 30 January 2019 at 5:38 am

    When I use my Workmate for something like this, I throw a five gallon bucket of old paint on the step. Really helps keep the workmate steady. Thought about bolting it into the garage floor too. It’s pretty handy when needed.

  41. Rick Sellers on 30 May 2019 at 3:49 am

    Thanks for the videos. I’m progressing on the bench, albeit slowly, but that works for me. I’m looking for some advice on plow/plough and rabbet/rebate planes. I have terrible luck with finding anything on ebay, so I’m thinking of buying a nice plane. Can a rebate plane do the job of a plow plane, or vice versa? I can probably only afford to buy one or the other for now, so does anyone have a recommendation on which to buy first?

    Las Vegas

    • Izzy BergerTeam Member on 5 June 2019 at 2:07 pm

      Hi Rick,

      Thank you for your question, I passed this on to Paul and his answer is below:

      I would go for the plough plane as there is no true universal plough/ rebate plane. You can however, do some rebating with a plough plane such as small rebates.

      Kind Regards,

  42. Raphaël P on 6 October 2019 at 12:44 am

    I am starting my bench – exciting time! – and was planning to put a board under the aprons and cut the well board in two to have extra storage like you did on the plywood bench. I just saw in this video that the well board is screw to the bearer. Obviously, that won’t be possible in my case but should I think of another way to fix the well board? Or is the friction of the groove enough?

    Best regards,
    (Been waiting three years for that moment!)

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