Workbench: Episode 7

Posted 26 January 2018

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The well board is next, and a rebate is cut in either side. This enables it to be inserted in the grooves that are cut in the benchtop and apron using a plough plane.

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Previous: Workbench: Episode 6

111 Comments

  1. Coming together very nicely. I find myself getting up extra early to watch on release days before going to work (4 am U.S.). It’s a killer having to wait all day knowing it’s here if I don’t. Thanks.

  2. Do you have any advice for keeping a vertical wall with the rebate plane ?
    I find it very difficult to keep the plane on track and the fence starts to track off the face of the piece and I end up with a sloping wall. Paul doesn’t seem to exert much sideways pressure to keep the fence registered. I was wondering if there’s a trick to it that I have yet to master ?

    1. Simon,
      1. Make sure the cutting edge is square.
      2. The edge of the iron needs to be set to protrude slightly from the plane side ie. not flush with the plane side. About the thickness of a business card or so, just enough to catch your fingernail.
      Best,
      Craig

    2. If you see that each pass gives you a step that goes towards the outside edge, then make sure the side of the blade slightly protrudes, as Craig said.

      Also try to fix the stepped cuts with a bullnose plane before going forward or afterwards.

    3. On the outside face of a no 78 rebate plane there is a small cutter which slices the timber before the blade. Although this is intended for use when cutting a rebate across the grain it can help along the grain as long as you don’t let it follow any antagonistic grain direction, oh, and keep your blade sharp and finely set.

  3. Great episode! Thank you!

    If you don’t have a plow plane, is a chisel and a router plane good to do the groove (as you would make a dado or mortise) ?

    Another thing, why would you have to glue the benchtop to the apron if you’re screwing it down in place from the bottom ? Can’t you just screw it from the side on the spots that are left when the vise is installed ?

    1. Hello Mathieu,
      You could plow with a chisel and outer if you are careful, or you could just leave the well board un-rebated. It does add some solidity if you to fit it using a groove though.

      Gluing them to each other makes sure they do not shrink or expand separately and adds solidity to the whole. So that is why we glue it.

      1. Yeah that rebate plane is awesome I’m going to make one but I think he said plow plane so it’s probably a chisel job which I’ve done before and it’s actually faster to do than you would think. Instead of rebating the well board I suppose you could taper the underside with a scrub plane? Like when fitting panels in door construction.

  4. Hi Paul/Philip, this series is great something to get you teeth into, N.b Im having some problems playing the videos Ep 7 they start then screen go’s blank, any idea’s Philip .Thank you Mark (UK Surrey)

    1. Hello @markbusby,
      Strange.. could you contact us through the contact tab at the top of the page if you are still having this problem with the details of the type of computer and browser you are using and we will go form there. I will delete this comment in a week to help keep the comments free from non-woodworking questions.

    2. mark busby, i also have the same problem ,, i have traced it to my ISP ,and the streaming rate on the video
      when you first go to the video before you start it there is a cog wheel at the end of the timer bar ,click on that and it will give you various speeds to stream at ,out here I have to use 360 p and the video is usually set at 1080 or 760 this only happens on i pads and phones ,seems like i don’t often get the auto setting on the mobile, which is a setting on the laptop.
      you can also set the video to run in slow mo or speed it up with the cog
      hopes this helps

    2. Screws/Screwbolts might be better for fixing the Bench-Top to the Apron. Plugged in the same way. Then you could completely dismantle it if needed. A permanent “L”-shaped component that long & heavy, won’t transport easily.

  7. I do own a plough plane with an assortment of blades but I don’t own a rebate plane unfortunagely. i was wondering if I could use this to cut the rebate in the well board, wholley or partially (perhaps finishing off with a chisel)?

      1. Thanks Phillip. I’ll test both these options and chose the best performing. I had forgotten about the poor man’s rebate plane. It looks like it works exceedingly well. I’ll can use a plough plane blade instead of a chisel. Thanks

      2. Use the plough plane to make two cuts, one from the edge and the other from the face, you will lose support on the second cut as you are nearly through and this can be finished in all sorts of ways such as a chisel, a knife or even a tenon saw to finish the cut.

      1. Carlos, that looks fantastic — well done, sir! I bought my lumber just a week ago — and it’s still acclimating to my shop — another two weeks and it should be stable enough to begin work. Buen hecho, hermano — sigue para adelante!

  9. I built my workbench from your YouTube videos a couple years ago. It turned out well, but it’s nice to see your upgrades.
    My condolences on the use of the modern B&D workmate. I have this one and one i bought in the 70’s which is much stronger and heavier. Always fun to watch you work.

  10. Both the rabbet & plough planes were listed as “optional but highly recommended” in the tools section of the plans & cutting list. For those of us without them, is the best option to use the batten & quadrant method of fitting the wellboard in the bench featured in ‘The Artisan Course’ book or is there an alternative way of creating the grooves & rebates?

      1. Hello Glen. For the batten and quadrant method, fit a battens on the inside of the apron and a 2×1 on the bottom inside of the benchtop that the wellboard sits on along with the bearers. You can then screw up through these into the wellboard to hold it in place. Then fit a quadrant in the corners on the wellboard so it is easier to clean it out.

        You can also fit the wellboard by fitting as in the old bench. It just needs a thicker wellboard to allow the housings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoGVMgYrrr0&index=11&list=PLD39949332C7FB168

  12. Looking really nice. Shouldn’t there be a deeper groove (or more wiggle room for the well board) to compensate for the wood movement as the benchtop / well board could expand? I am always scared about the wood moving.

    Best regards,

    Yves

  14. I can’t help but feel like 2 years after making my first bench I’ll need to upgrade to version 2.0–I really like the improvements in construction–notably the wellboard assembly.

    Question–when fitting the wellboard, Paul only used a lag screw on one side of the bench. Is it not necessary to do the same on the other side?

    1. I built one some time ago as well but I like the original method of fitting the thicker well board as the rebates on the underside of the well board sit nicely over the leg frames giving extra rigidity not to mention the extra weight to add to the stability.

  15. I noticed Paul adjusting the blade on the plow and rebate planes while working. I understand they move a bit, but adjusting without recalibrating, doesn’t it change the depth of the cut. Or should I ask how do you reset it to the same exact setting on the fly?

      1. David, I understand that, but when you adjust the blade it in itself changes the depth of cut. For a deeper cut, you are pushing the blade away from the sole and the depth stop (which is attached to the sole. The blade moves independently of the sole

        1. I don’t think is matters all that much. When you take a heavy cut, the blade is still protruding very slightly, at best 1/4 mm. The blade depth is therefore not taken into account when setting the depth stop.

  17. Interesting approach to make the rebate. I couldn’t wait for the videos, so I completed my workbench already, but I made the rebate with the wellboard laying flat. Of course, I used a completely different setting on the rebate plane, because of this. Is there a particular reason to make the rebate with the wellboard standing up on its side?

  18. At 31:55 I get the impression you concentrate on the plane of sawing so much that it almost becomes visible. That may be just me.
    It’s something I keep in mind as an answer to the classroom question “why do we have to learn geometry?” and allows for a small word play too. It’s probably easier to saw what you already saw in your mind.

    1. If the floor is dead flat, then the solution is easy: put some cardboard pieces or wedges under the feet of the workbench until it stops rocking. Then put a pencil parallel to the floor (simplest: if you need only one or two millimeters cardboards to stop that rocking, the radius of the pencil will be enough) and mark all legs at the same height. Then shorten the legs to that line.
      If the floor isn’t dead flat, then it depends whether you want to change the position of the workbench from time to time or if you’ve found the final position. In the last case I’d either curtail the non-rocking legs until the top of the bench is level or glue a piece of wood under the rocking legs and plane it down until the top is level in all directions.

      Hope that helps,

      E.

    1. I am wondering the same thing. I don’t know if I’ll ever need to break this bench down, but I’d like to keep that option open. I wonder if putting a little wax paper on the bearer before gluing would be a good idea for those of us who haven’t mastered the art of mess-free glue ups.

  22. Any chance of a blog entry or video discussing how to add a small drawer to the apron? I’m wondering more about how to build and integrate the supports inside for the drawer to slide and sit on, than actually building a drawer and fitting it to the opening, since Paul has discussed this in other projects. Any information would be appreciated. Please and thank you, of course. (smile)

    1. This would be my big request too, even an extra Special Episode about fitting a drawer, unless of course that is already the plan for the last episode, but seems unlikely as it stands as the materials needed aren’t there.

  23. The plough plane certainly encountered a lot of knots while making the groove. Out of curiosity, did Paul sharpen it up before he used it on the second piece in this video?

    Just trying to get a feel how often a plough plane blade gets sharpened. I’ve watched enough of Paul’s other videos and done enough wood working to have a feel for chisels and a number 4 plane.

  25. I have a #78 Stanley and a WS rebate plane both of which clog at the mouth after only 4 passes, which I need to clear before proceeding. Is there something I can do to rectify this problem or is it a common event with these planes.

    1. David.

      It is pretty common but there are things you can do to make things better.
      1) check that the lever cap is making full contact with the iron if not, hone the leadin edge until it is. There should be no gap at the front.

      2) check if the leadin edge of the cap is excessively blunt. If it is, file it to a sharper edge. The wing on the right side is supposed to deflect shaving to the left. You can tilt the cap so the leading edge is a bit further to the right. That may be all you need to do, if you are lucky.

      3) the thin part of the body casting is also supposed to deflect shavings left. Sand any rough areas.
      If you are brave, you can make the bottom edge of that part of the casting so it isn’t so blunt.

      After you have done the appropriate tuneups, paint the bare metal.

      And if you can find a lever cap for a Stanley 289, it is better desi

  26. Phil, when Paul went to do the rebate on the well-board, he went in from the edge, rather than laying the board down flat and rebating in from the bottom face of the well-board. Why? Just preference? Is there an advantage to this I’m missing?

          1. Calle,
            The vise works differently than the Eclipse in that the release is by turning the handle instead of a ” trigger” release.
            Craig

  28. I use stands on one or both ends when I plane long pieces using my Workmate. Makes a big difference in control and reducing effort as the pressure from planing makes the wood dive, the stands reduce or stop that.

  29. Paul’s greatest video series was his work bench build in his back yard. I was struggling with my wood working. And that series put every thing into focus for me. It showed me Just how simple and satisfying wood working can be. I put my power router in a closet and never used it since. I use my power planer and table saw to dimension lumber but other then that no electrons touch my work.
    I built my current work bench out of spruce 2 x4

  30. This episode answers a question I’ve had since the beginning of the series – will anything be added to help stop the table from skewing and twisting – the answer is that the tops are screwed from below through the bearer.

    One question – if I will be assembling and disassembling my bench a lot (ie every weekend I use it), will these screws be adequate over time? Will the thread in the wood wear out?

    As an alternative to screws, what about drilling a hole right through the bearers, right to the top, and then hitting a dowel through the hole – which could then be hammered out when the bench needs disassembling?

    Another thought was to cut two rebates in the benchtop, (much like the rebates in the apron), cut to the width of the bearers, so that the bearers register snugly into the worktop?

  31. I have a problem with my bench top wobbling about 1/4″ when I place it on the bearers. I have checked for twist in the bench top with 4′ winding sticks and it is dead on. I suspect one of the bearers (or cross piece under it) is a little off. Do you have any suggestions to fix this? I can balance it out with a small shim next to the apron but was wondering if there was a better way. I would also like any suggestions as to what I did wrong to cause it.

    1. Mine had some wobble because my bench to wasn’t perfectly thicknessed over the legs. I had to take off a small amount from one area and the wobble resolved. Flip your bench top over and check for wind right over the legs. The rest doesn’t matter so much, but right over the legs has to be perfect.

  33. Is there a reason for rabbeting both the well board and apron/top? It seems no less structurally sound to only rebate the apron/top and leave the well board the full 1 inch, and less work.

  34. Paul can’t wait for the “final touch” installation of the vice. Been looking for a vid on your YouTube channel and such and only was able to come across a blog you did about it with words and pics…….

    I just finished my workbench and am awaiting the final step of attaching a woodworkers vice also!! Can’t wait………you are the man….

    They don’t make men like they used to, you are one of them my friend. Keep up the good work and thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent!!

  35. At what point is it recommended to shorten the workbench. I’m 5’7, and went with the 38 inch height. I notice as I’m planing my wellboard (with it clamped to the bench top) I’m struggling to plane the far side of the board comfortably. In the past, I’ve only planed wood on a folding table or my coffee table, so obviously the height difference is significant, but I found myself standing on my tippy toes to get to the back side. My shoulders were also aching, but that could be because I’m using different muscles than before. The height does seem ideal for detail work though, so I’m hesitant to make any changes right away–especially since its a rather permanent change. Is there anything in particular I should watch for to help me know for sure if I need to alter the height? Thanks

    1. Hello Erin, best thing to do is to test it out by standing on a block to see if that is beneficial for certain tasks. It can take a little time to get used to a higher bench height, and this is a good way to test it out.

  36. Is there a particular reason for fitting the well board with this method, rather than using housing dado joints under the leg frames, like in the youtube series years ago? Doesn’t the housing dado offers more overall strength?

  38. Possible. Make sure the cutter is sharp, and mind that the grain direction is favorable.

    Since a plough plane doesn’t have a sole, you have to give the plane some help with planning how you make the cut.

    1. If I’m thinking right, even if the plow plane blade is narrow, you could use it to define the wall of the rebate and then clear out with your #4 or #5 as long as the groove you plowed is at least as wide as the distance between the edge of your #4 blade and the edge of the sole. You might whack a bunch out with a chisel after the plow, then just get the final surface with the #4 or #5. The trick will be getting the rebate will perpendicular with the plow. I’ve never tried this but would at least give it a try on some scrap.

  39. Could I inquire about the screw selection for fitting the top to the bearers? The ubiquity of dry wall screws leads to the temptation to use those, but their tinsel strength is limited. Paul appears to not use dry wall screws but a comment on his screw selection would be helpful.

  40. When I use my Workmate for something like this, I throw a five gallon bucket of old paint on the step. Really helps keep the workmate steady. Thought about bolting it into the garage floor too. It’s pretty handy when needed.

  41. Thanks for the videos. I’m progressing on the bench, albeit slowly, but that works for me. I’m looking for some advice on plow/plough and rabbet/rebate planes. I have terrible luck with finding anything on ebay, so I’m thinking of buying a nice plane. Can a rebate plane do the job of a plow plane, or vice versa? I can probably only afford to buy one or the other for now, so does anyone have a recommendation on which to buy first?

    Thanks,
    Rick
    Las Vegas

    1. Hi Rick,

      Thank you for your question, I passed this on to Paul and his answer is below:

      I would go for the plough plane as there is no true universal plough/ rebate plane. You can however, do some rebating with a plough plane such as small rebates.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  42. Hi,
    I am starting my bench – exciting time! – and was planning to put a board under the aprons and cut the well board in two to have extra storage like you did on the plywood bench. I just saw in this video that the well board is screw to the bearer. Obviously, that won’t be possible in my case but should I think of another way to fix the well board? Or is the friction of the groove enough?

    Best regards,
    (Been waiting three years for that moment!)

  43. Not sure if you still check these comments. I have been following along and making this bench. I put the wellboard in today and realized that I had cut the groove on the back apron above my line instead of below it, so the back of the wellboard sits 1/4″ high instead of resting on the bearer. I am wondering the best way to repair it.

    I thought I could fill the current groove by gluing in a 1/4″ strip and then cutting a new groove right next to it that is 1/4″ closer to the bearer. It would really be right next to the old groove.

    Or, I thought I could put a wedge on the bearer to support the weight and leave it slanted.

    Or, I thought I could make a new apron. That is a lot of work though.

    Any thoughts on the best way to handle a mistake like this?

    Thanks, I have learned so much from this series.

  44. 1. On the first workbench built in his garden, Paul did not made a groove; the well board is just dropped between the working top and the back apron. So it not absolutely needed.

    2. You could just widen the groove. Push a strip of wood in the remaining space only if you find it really annoying (things getting trapped there).

  45. Thanks Benoît. I decided to turn make a rabbet from the groove to the top and glue in a new piece, then make the groove in the right position. In hindsight, I like your idea to just widen the groove lower.

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