Stanley No 71 Hand Router
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Good news.
I found a website that offers ‘cut to size’ polycarbonate plastic sheets. I just ordered two pieces for a total of £10.74 and that includes delivery.
I will let you know if the product is any good, but for £10 it was worth a try. Especially as another website I was looking at, wanted to stick on a surcharge of £40.01 extra!
Width: 270mm
Length: 120mm
Thickness: 4mm
Rounded Corners: 2mm"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
Totally right! A nice piece of beech would be ideal to mimick old wooden planes. I had to “settle” for an old plank of rosewood since I couldn’t get hold of a properly wide beech board here. Cheers!
The two 4mm thick polycarbonate bases should be with me soon.
Can I drill holes into them, using the same bits I used on the wooden base, and can I also use normal wood screws to affix the base to the Stanley?
Or will I need special bits/screws because it is polycarbonate?
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
I’d be inclined to drill and tap the polycarbonate to take an M5 or M6 flat head machine screw.
CraigSW Pennsylvania
Would any of these do the job:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-bright-zinc-plated-pan-head-machine-screws-m5-x-30mm-25-pack/7195j
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
It seems I need to purchase a special drill bit that goes through the polycarbonate.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
Don’t want to be a killjoy, but I think you will be forced and compelled to be quite elaborate on this one.
First, to make sure that your screws won’t protrude, it might be advantageous to use flat headed screws that allow for washers between the screw head and the router base. (Axminster used to have very nice m6 x 15 for hex keys, but I can’t find them).
It might be necessary to use a transfer punch or snugly fitting drill bit to mark the holes on the sub-base. Then that will have to be drilled and finally threaded.
Sven-Olof Jansson
London, UK; Boston, MA
