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22 May 2019 at 2:18 pm #574313
When I did that to mine, I just slid the sticks in with a friction fit………no fasteners needed.
27 April 2019 at 2:36 pm #557267Here’s a PDF from Tap Plastics about drilling acrylic: https://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/Tech%20Data-Drilling.pdf
Lots of information.27 April 2019 at 3:09 am #557224As has been mentioned, there are special Plexi-bits for drilling acrylic. However, I’ve also heard that you can make an acceptable “plexi-bit” by taking a regular bit and drilling into concrete a little to dull it. Never tried it myself. I think the object is to create a bit that won’t blow out the backside of a piece that you’re drilling.
26 April 2019 at 3:12 am #557091I bought a 3/8″ Narex chisel to fill a gap in my set of 1980’s Marples bluechip chisels. I was really impressed with how well it cut. I’m planing on ordering a few more Narex gap fillers. One of these days I’m going to treat myself to a Veritas PM-11 chisel to compare.
17 April 2019 at 4:56 am #556102Then there’s the issue of meeting modern building codes, plus a sprinkler system. It took 200 years to build originally, so I don’t see anything happening too fast.
1 April 2019 at 3:36 am #555713[quote quote=555710]Ok, I found this site:
http://www.woodcuttoorder.co.uk
Shipping is £19.50 and the total is £32.62 and from what little research I’ve done, that’s actually one of the more competitive prices.
My only concern is whether or not I should go for American White Oak (which is the above) or just European Oak.
Does anyone have any opinions?[/quote]
That seems like a lot of money for what is essentially a piece of scrap wood for a router base. I think this is kind of like what my dad used to tell me once in a while when I was over-thinking things……….”Jim………we’re not building pianos here”! LOL If you’re doing woodworking projects you must have some scrap material around?
Jim
21 March 2019 at 2:03 am #555627[quote quote=555625]You can do like I did, make a whole bunch of small jewellery type boxes. For me, it was learning eye hand coordination 90%, then holding the chisel or saw straight. Box after box after box. Sometimes I would keep a box with bad cuts just to refer back to later. Most times I would just re-cut the ends and square them again then start over, less waste of wood. I got big boxes (use them for my tools now) and so many small gift type boxes, but it was a great way to learn to prep stock, extremely important, and cut tails, slowly getting better and better
Now the confession. I just made my Trestle table, and the dovetails were the least of my worries. As it turned out, everything else was perfect, mortises and tenons absolutely perfect. Dovetails….. very first one I blew into a differnt time zone. The next 2 were super good and the last one perfect. That dog’s tooth was my fear on the first one and I think I let that get to me. Turned out to be pretty easy to do really. So with all my practice on Dovetails, when it came right down to it, I can still blotch them.[/quote]
Excellent post! Thanks. Practice is certainly the answer to getting better at something. Musicians call that “paying your dues”. All the tips in the world aren’t going to help much, unless you do the work……….over and over again. Unfortunately, many don’t attempt something simply because they’re afraid of failure. You’ve certainly offered a lot of encouragement.
Jim
16 March 2019 at 2:14 am #555566[quote quote=555565]John, you mentioned the extra weight of the modern planes and also the fact the thicker irons that make them more work to keep sharp (unless you hollow grind) which were probably my main two concerns so I think I will take your advice and build myself a set of quality older Stanley or record planes and perhaps add the Veritas LAJ and LAS as a bit of a treat in future. Thanks for your inputs so far guys[/quote]
The Veritas LAJ will also make a great shooting plane.
Jim
7 March 2019 at 11:53 pm #555489I’ve got the same router plane and have used it on Pine and Cherry so far. No problem. I don’t recall needing to use much downward pressure. I did discover that it works best for me to take a fairly thin shaving each pass.
25 February 2019 at 2:53 am #555345Planing from 3/4″ to 1/2″……………if one took 1/8″ off each side, it seems like that would help with the cupping issue. I think I’d leave it a bit over thicknesses and let it stabilize a while before planing to final thickness. I wonder how they did it way back in the “olden days”?
21 February 2019 at 4:14 am #555262I was just looking at the Dovetail Box video and it looks like Paul starts with the saw at the angle of the tail. https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/dovetail-boxes-project-info/dovetail-boxes-episode-1/ (around the 28 minute mark)
Jim
19 February 2019 at 4:23 am #555189Don’t know about the utility trailer, but I’d really like to know where to get the hat he’s wearing!
19 February 2019 at 2:57 am #555188Have you tried planing without using the oil in a can?
Have you tried planing outside the house?
Have you taken your planes to someones house and see if the problem exists?
Have you tried planing at someone else house with their planes?
Have you tried planing at your house with their planes……not using your oil in a can?
Are you using the same brand of tomato can as Paul? OK that’s just an attempt at a little humor.Just thinking out loud. You may have tried all this already. As with most things like this…….the cause will be pretty obvious once you know what it is.
Jim
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