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30 July 2016 at 10:48 pm #138961
Hello James,
I bought a Silverline #4 and #5 also. The #5 is going need to some major surgery but the #4 works well after some TLC. The following is based on my experience.
1. The planes had different cap irons and different lengths, which is critical between the cap iron shaped edge and the upper side of the Y adjustment slot. There’s about 3mm in the difference. The cap iron as shown in PS blog has the “CORRECT ANGLE FOR GRINDING” stamped into it and I would say it is the correct length for the plane. However the plane iron was sticking out the bottom of the plane when I got it and I have removed about 5mm so far and it is adjusting well. If you’re using it as a Jack plane, rough everyday use, a 1mm camber should be ok, maybe a little big, I just measures mine at 0.8mm, but take the edges almost to the corners of the cap iron when lining up. (normally its more for a smoothing camber). You will need a smaller camber maybe 0.2mm for smoothing. I tried a Stanley iron cap from my e-bay promised perfect clunker and it didn’t work with the Silverline #4 but the blade does.
2.You need to work on the cap iron and plane iron so they sit flush. I found these three rants
very good on setting up cutting iron for tearout and it may take a while to get right if its you’re fist time doing it. If you’re still getting crinkly, wavy shavings you may have to back off the cap iron first and then the frog a little to open the mouth until it disappears – the shaving is getting crushed basically it clogs up the throat causing tear out.
Keep us updated, stay focused, etc
Regards,
John Meaney- This reply was modified 7 years, 9 months ago by John Meaney.
10 July 2016 at 4:18 pm #138415I don’t like the coarser diamond stones, they just don’t last. I use the Norton Combination stone 100/320 Coarse/Fine and a Superfine diamond stone for finishing. I flatten the back with the superfine diamond stone before and after bevel sharpening on same stone.
I use a 400 diamond stone to flatten the Norton fine stone maybe 20 strokes occasionally but always find the middle high in both directions after.
The rough side of the Norton is soft/wears easy so I only use for correction etc but it does cut through steel fast. The oil can be messy so I thinks a box is necessary and it maybe why people don’t like it.
10 July 2016 at 1:14 pm #138406I get tendinitis for too often mostly in my shoulder and elbows and sometimes in thumb, hips and ankle area and I refuse to get the Cortisone injections. I spent a lot of money on therapy, the best was Cryotherapy, (freezing chamber therapy with physiotherapist massage after) but found the following just as good for me. I still go for Crtyotherpay occasionally as a checkup really.
I use BioFreeze gel (same as Tiger Balm I think) and it gives great relief. It seems to heal and numb the area after massaging it in. I also do find cold packs better than heat packs, I think it reduces inflammation and stimulates blood flow.
I also find magnesium excellent, I take it in a natural remedy form called “Melissa Dreams” to help sleep and it made a remarkable difference but magnesium makes me drowsy so I only take it about once, twice a week before bedtime.
I also find that finger massage improves healing and relief. I walk my fingers around the pain area with a little pressure to find the max pain point and the use my middle finger tip pressing harder/softer to find the exact pain point, then I press/massage around that area, NOT on the pain point, with the middle three fingers soft and hard for five or ten minutes. Its suppose to enhance blood flow in the area and flush out the trapped blood. It hurts but it works for me but initially I think was aggravating the damage so it took a while to master.
Its due to work, genetics and as Matt says diet. Lots of nutrients, minerals and natural benefits are now missing due to mass cultivation and modified selection of our food. Far too many – selenium and magnesium are two. I’m working this out at the moment.
Take care,
John13 June 2016 at 11:17 pm #137812I find a 20in rip saw 10tpi and much easier to use than a 22in saw 10tpi saw, maybe it’s my arm length but the 22in I have feel cumbersome especially of your bench is against wall. That Greaves looks good but I have never used one and it would need the tooth profile changed – very easy to do. The 16in just seems too short. Rgds John
21 February 2016 at 4:09 pm #134910Sorry Austin,
I meant to add this item
https://virginiatoolworks.com/?s=stanley+gage
Regards,
John21 February 2016 at 3:42 pm #134909Austin,
You may have a Stanley Gage ‘auto-setting’ smoothing plane Type 1.perhaps early 1920’s Here is some info
Stanley Gage Planes – History and Type Study
https://workingbyhand.wordpress.com/tag/gage/
and it is similar to item ST49 onhttp://www.supertool.com/forsale/listm2015.html
Enjoy!
John Meaney
7 September 2015 at 4:50 pm #130142I wouldn’t worry about how long it took, it’s a very professional piece and well done Jaime. Yep, PS has an amazing way of teaching alright.
7 September 2015 at 3:11 pm #130141Cheers Matt,
I’d agree about hardening cutters which I may do later. It’s more of an experiment – I am pestered with the thought I may possibly accessorize a 043 with a bead, a quirk, a hollow and a round profile cutter to work off the standard 043 using just standard tools. There are dimensional restrictions and the cutters may not work properly but it will be fun to find out! So, fingers crossed it will be good and I can save cash and shop space by NOT buying excess tools.
I share your reservations about overhitting it, I only tap lightly the plane to tweak the blade depth when the chisels are mounted.
Making and modifying tools is absolutely brilliant just wish I had more woodwork time.
John
26 January 2015 at 9:22 pm #123924I decided coarse diamond stones are not forever and there may be a common trend with coarse d-stones by DMT and EZElap wearing out based on previous discussions here https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/discussions/topic/durability-difference-between-eze-lap-and-dmt/
so I concluded I would always need to replace them.
I use Aluminium Oxide abrasive sheets from my local motor factors which are sold for car restoration. They’re good and cheap and I use diluted 3-in-1 as lubricant as I thought the water based lubricants were rusting my plane soles and I think maybe I like the smell of oil.
I have grown quiet fond of my oil-stones btw.
25 January 2015 at 6:47 pm #123869Chris,
My Eze-lap Coarse stone has completely lost its “coarseness” months ago – its more like a double-super extra fine now. I tried plastic erasers, vinegar and other sorts but nothing. I thought I just over used it and bought a new combination oilstone and a fine oilstone (old Grey/black) as I couldn’t justify buying another d-stone. Haven’t touched the d-stones so far but I haven’t had much woodwork time recently.
I don’t want to disillusion anyone about not buying the d-stones but I am disappointed in the coarse.
Regards,
John Meaney11 January 2015 at 10:12 pm #123412Eddy,
I got stuff from Fine Tools Dieter Smidt and would recommend them. Shipping was about €9 to Ireland, full tracking online system and delivered using the DHL (post) system. I have spoken to them on the phone, e-mailed them etc. Highly recommend them.
Regards,
John24 December 2014 at 11:18 pm #122682Merry Christmas Eddy, If I get the saw I wanted I probably wont get passed the Christmas tree without testing it.
24 December 2014 at 11:15 pm #122681Wishing a Happy and Peacefull Christmas to Paul and team and all at WWMC.
23 November 2014 at 11:24 pm #121376Another pristine job Dave.
I watched the two hour saw sharpening video and re-profiled my Disston 7tpi with the PS method – came out very well. I recently made a T-shape saw vise from pine which made things alot easier – closer to the eyes and no bending always helps I guess.
I definitely need to get those rust erasers, WD40 makes me feel sick and nauseous.
John Meaney
23 November 2014 at 10:52 pm #121373An extremely worthwhile video and worth every minute of watching. Thanks for sharing – it got me started re-profiling teeth.
John
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