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11 August 2017 at 5:51 pm #314471
Ron Hock says it should be about 27 degrees, I sharpen all my blades to 25 degrees and they work well at that angle. Just remember that they need to be “scary sharp” not like I used to do and that was almost sharp. When a spoke shave is sharp they work very well. Good Luck.
11 July 2017 at 12:56 am #313642I expect you are correct about the paint. I treat the sole of my spokeshave the same way I do my bench planes, as far as sanding and polishing them. Good luck.
26 June 2017 at 1:57 am #313240I have and use a number of spokeshaves and the only real trick is blade sharpness. I try to keep the blade set as shallow as possible, except on the Stanley #151. Because it has an adjustable blade I set one side high and the other low, in order to be able to use it for a heavy or light shaving without readjusting the blade. I also have a # 1 circular spoke shave the is also razor sharp and set very shallow. I try to set the blade at no more than .015 or .020 in order to keep it from cutting too deep. It takes a while to get use to using a spokeshave ,but it is well worth the time and effort I find.
22 June 2017 at 5:02 pm #313177Matt: the card scraper is in deed much thinner than the regular blade and I do have the #80 blade beveled at 45 degrees but I have never put a secondary bevel on the plane blade I might try that. I don’t know exactly why but I seem to have better and easier positive results with the card scraper than I do with the #80. It seems to me that I can take a much finer and more controlled cut.
14 January 2017 at 2:05 am #162663[quote quote=144006]I think it would be easier using a bar of O1 tool steel. I’ve seen some on ebay in the following size 300 mm. x 8 mm. x 400 mm. Considering the target is 7,7 mm, it shouldn’t be too hard removing 0.35 mm therefore obtaining a perfectly square section. I am planning of having the blade cut from the bar, starting from it’s lateral projection. Then i would sand it to 7.7 mm and temper it. Starting from an Allen wrench poses the problem that the shaft should be squared, which is a lot of job, in my opinion.
Any thoughts or suggestions ?
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You might try a local machine tool place and get “keystock”. You can get any size you want and it is really hard steel. You can heat and bend it but it has to be ground for sharpening, it is not tool steel but it will give you a chance to see if you can make them by hand before you resort to buying the blades from eBay.
[quote quote=144006]I think it would be easier using a bar of O1 tool steel. I’ve seen some on ebay in the following size 300 mm. x 8 mm. x 400 mm. Considering the target is 7,7 mm, it shouldn’t be too hard removing 0.35 mm therefore obtaining a perfectly square section. I am planning of having the blade cut from the bar, starting from it’s lateral projection. Then i would sand it to 7.7 mm and temper it. Starting from an Allen wrench poses the problem that the shaft should be squared, which is a lot of job, in my opinion.
Any thoughts or suggestions ?
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14 January 2017 at 1:53 am #162378The type of leather is the problem, I live in Texas and can get all kinds of leather, I also do a little leather work from time to time and I use a piece of scrap tooling leather. It’s 3/16 thick, with rough one side, smooth the other. This leather is NOT coated with a softener. That is probably what is going on with your leather. Some softening compounds also keep stuff from sticking to the leather. You may also be using a Chrome tanned product. great for tooling but not so much for the stropping compound.
14 January 2017 at 1:39 am #162119[quote quote=144036]Thanks all for the advice
A related question. How often, given average daily use (sorry, I know that is subjective), should I sharpen my chisels and plane?
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[quote quote=144036]Thanks all for the advice
A related question. How often, given average daily use (sorry, I know that is subjective), should I sharpen my chisels and plane?
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Amazon(USA) now has DMT plates on sale for $49.00.
As far as sharpening I hit all the tools I expect to use before I start a new project, I get them razor sharp and Just touch them up or strop them during the project.- This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by oltexasboy.
8 January 2017 at 5:01 pm #144002http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/
This is where I bought my diamond plates. They are 3×8 and have lasted sinceAug.2015 without any obvious signs of wear. They are DMT plates and are $20.00 less than other sellers
I just checked their prices and they are a lot higher than when I got mine. They are still less expensive than getting them from DMT directly. Watch for sales on Sharpening Supplies. I got mine for $55.00 on sale. Since I haven’t been doing this for 50 years I use a Veritas guide and have been very pleased with the results. Good Luck.- This reply was modified 7 years, 3 months ago by oltexasboy.
14 December 2016 at 1:29 am #143336I have a couple and use them quite often and my guess is that whoever owned it didn’t know how to sharpen or use it and the straight edge probably was digging in on the corners which they will do if they are not sharpened and used correctly. Sharpen it like a card scraper and and set it shallow to begin with and it will be fine. Good luck. I think Paul has a video on scraper planes.
27 October 2016 at 1:37 am #141945I understand cutting to the line but I have heard Paul say on numerous occasions that you should adjust your cut during or before you first 10 strokes. What is the correct way or is there a “correct way to adjust your cut as you go. I have been making a charity auction piece that is made from rough cut western red cedar and it is very cantankerous about ripping a straight line down the face because of the onery grain coming and going, even with a really good saw the line wanders and I have to plane every piece to correct for width. Any ideas? It would be great if you could add this as a Q for the Q&A and show how you do this.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 6 months ago by oltexasboy.
20 October 2016 at 1:47 am #141668Because I just built a Krenov style smoother, I now have 3 of Ron Hocks blades. I am amazed every time I use one of them compared to the other blades I have used(Stanley /Millers falls). They are a JOB to sharpen but once that is done they cut like nothing else I have ever used. They are about the same price as any other premium blades. My 2 cents worth. And yes I use diamond sharpening plates.
20 October 2016 at 1:39 am #141667One of the things that Paul does that isn’t said, is as a general rule he treats every project as if it were a fine piece of furniture. Take it from an old man slow down. Relax your grip and let the saw do it’s work. I also saw with an old Stanley tool box saw, that has been sharpened and has a very light set. It’s a 10 tpi saw with a soft 12 tpi set, this helps to to keep the line drift down to a minimum, and lessens the overall drag. You’ll get there and as you say, practice. Good luck.
13 October 2016 at 4:00 pm #141388I have a 71 & a 71p and all the cutters and the one you have is a homemade cutter. There is a spear point that works the same way but has a double edged cutter but the skewed cutter might work. You didn’t say if you got all the cutters, but they are fairly cheap on eBay if you don’t. I have a few extra if you can’t find what you need let know and I’ll look and see if I have what you need.
11 October 2016 at 11:58 pm #141316I have one just like yours, and even though it doesn’t show well in the photo the adjuster is just slightly bigger and the hub is slightly thicker than a standard #4, because it is plastic. If you have a junker laying around you can replace the adjuster and it will give you a little bit more room for you digits.
27 September 2016 at 12:57 am #140892I am signed up at LAP and for the most part it is an enjoyable forum. I have a few of Chris’ books and I like his work ethic because I am also mostly a handtool woodworker. He has however kind of migrated over to the hipster side himself. I ask him a simple straight forward question and got a snarky reply. I sill read the forum daily if I have time. Well worth the time usually. Lots of good advise to be gleaned from the forum. Check it out and make your own decision.
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