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20 June 2019 at 5:53 pm #582887
@ed I haven’t had a problem with the depth stop and fence moving. I did roughen up the fence rails with some sand paper. The nicker is behind the depth stop, so extending it if the depth of the rabbet is less than about 1/4 inch is a problem. You can loosen it and move it out of the way though.
19 June 2019 at 3:07 pm #582540@ed The nicker is adjustable for both depth and projection. I’ve only adjusted the projection once and haven’t had to since. The plane works very well both with and across the grain.
If you go to the Lee Valley website, they have the instruction sheet and a video on setting up the plane.
Here’s a link to the page, and if you look under the first price line, you will see links to the instructions and the video.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=59999&cat=1,41182,48945&ap=1
13 March 2018 at 12:53 am #495918@ed If you’re confused, it’s my fault. I posted before my first cup of coffee. I meant the bevel up planes.
- This reply was modified 6 years ago by Peter George.
12 March 2018 at 12:34 pm #495520@ed, I like the lower center of gravity with the bevel downs. Also, I find them much quicker to adjust. I also like the quick and easy mouth adjustment.
I do have blades with lower angles for the shooting board, but it doesn’t make much of a difference. Sharp is much more important than the angle. I have put a steeper microbevel on a blade for difficult grain, but again, sharp seem to be more important.
11 March 2018 at 6:12 pm #495083Two of the three planes I use regularly are bevel up. They are a Veritas small bevel up smoother (about the size of a no. 3) and a Veritas bevel up jack plane, which gets used more like a jointer. The third plane is a bevel down jack that I use for initial preparation.
I have a couple of Stanley No. 4’s and a couple of no. 3’s as well as a no. 6, but I always reach for the bevel down planes.
Different stroke, I guess.
1 March 2018 at 1:28 am #487245I have a 1/16 and 1/8 that I use for cutting grooves for inlay. I have the 1/4, the 1/2 and the spear point that came with the plane. I mostly use the 1/2 inch for joinery.
9 January 2018 at 3:30 pm #431643Interesting topic. This is the reason Lee Valley got a lot of my money. Ebay prices seemed reasonable until you added in the shipping costs. Local auctions etc. have now attracted the collectors.
I found I’d rather spend some money and use the time saved doing woodworking or photography (my other passion). That’s just me, others find joy in stalking a good bargain. Different strokes.
4 December 2017 at 1:46 am #392924I splurged and bought one of these:
VeritasĀ® Cabinetmaker’s Mallet
I added leather to one of the faces. I like using it.I also use a couple of traditional mallets that I made based on Paul’s videos.
12 September 2017 at 4:26 am #315853In one of his books, Jim Toplin recalled some profound advise from a boat builder.
No one looks at both sides of a boat at the same time.
5 June 2017 at 5:43 am #312590Part of the issue may be the blade guides. Here is a good video on setting up your saw.
Band Saw ClinicYou generally don’t need a huge amount of tension on the blade. I generally use Viking blades. With these blades they recommend tightening until any blade flutter just disappears.
1 June 2017 at 3:24 pm #312476I look at every error as a learning experience. My skills won’t improve unless I make mistakes.
I will also put a project aside for a while if I’m getting frustrated. I’ll work on something that builds my confidence and then come back.
30 May 2017 at 4:18 am #312418I have some Henry Taylor which are fine and some P&N which are excellent. The P&N don’t come with handles so you have to turn your own. I started out with an economy set I got from Lee Valley which worked well. As long as the tools are high speed steel, you should be fine.
Ideally you should have a bowl gouge and flat and round nosed scrapers. I also know a very good turner who prefers to use a spindle gouge for face plate work. I find it too light for bowls, however if you are using a spring pole lathe you will likely have to take fairly light cuts anyway.
25 May 2017 at 2:40 am #312275[quote quote=312184]I honestly cant tell what is wrong with the first one. It looks fine to me.[/quote]
I made it too short for the intended picture. Other than that, it came out fine.
22 May 2017 at 7:32 pm #312179I haven’t had a lot of shop time over the past couple of months due to work and such intruding. However I finally managed to finish the frames and do the mounting and matte cutting.
The first picture is the one I messed up the dimensions on. The second is the good one.
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