@bwolinetz1
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hi Jeff,
it’ a fine looking table , sign and date it and move on to the next project (unless it really, really bugs you!) if you don’t point it out, 99.9 % of people won’t notice, and if they do…..so what!
come back to it in a year or so and decide what (if anything) your next move is.regards
Barry
Hi Steve,
refer to Paul’s blog post around april 3, 2023
https://paulsellers.com/2023/04/heavy-duty-or-balance/regards
barry
hi Alan
the authentication has changed (at least for me) and there is a ‘verify you are a human’ checkbox or a ‘success’ green dot from cloudflare.
if you are using a saved authentication on your tv, disable auto login and log in manually (wait for cloudflare before submitting your credentials) so you can see if that is causing your problems. if you get the ‘verify you are a human’ checkbox, click that and wait for the ‘success’ ✅ before submitting your credentialsi noticed that if i submit my login credentials before cloudflare has finished whatever it is doing, i get an error similar to the one you are seeing
regards
barry
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This reply was modified 11 months, 1 week ago by
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This reply was modified 11 months, 1 week ago by
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the reply. You gave some good insights. I went over my saw (14″ Rikon) and gave the tires a good cleaning, vacuumed all the residual dust, checked that the lower wheel brush was still adjusted correctly and that the guide bearings were adjusted correctly. I only use 3-4 TPI skip tooth blades and they are still sharp. I use a shopvac with the most CFM i could find (and afford) with a cyclone separator as my dust collector.
I’m pretty sure the main culprit in this case is the wood (construction grade pine with a lot of small resinous knots). I will try using the ‘rag in a can’ oiler and see if that helps. I should be cleaning the blade after each sawing session (it’s just normal maintenance, but easy to overlook!)
Thanks and regards
Barry
hi Antonio,
one trick is to take a piece of thin plywood close to the size of your saw table, cut part way into it and clamp it to the table. then cut your production pieces. this creates a ‘zero clearance insert’ to help minimize the splintering on the bottom of your workpiece.
regards,
barry
also….if you have another stanley plane, take off the front knob and see if the bolt and knob
fits the #45. then you’ll know if the thread is 12-20 and let you estimate the length requiredregards
barry
hi Tom,
i don’t have a #45 , but all the stanley planes that i have, use a 12-20 thread for the knobs and totes. the bolts mainly have a rolled thread rather than a cut thread, but a cut thread works fine. i found a #5 at a flea market with a broken tote and a missing screw and got it for $20. i have a metal lathe so i made the missing screw from some brass i had laying around. i found 12-20 taps and dies at victor machinery in michigan, but the shipping was more than the parts. 1/4 -20 taps, dies and allthread rod are more available if you want to drill out and rethread. (stanley purists should ignore that last sentence)
as always …..check on ebay for some stanley knobs and boltsregards
barry
hi Julio,
it looks like it’s still sold… https://lombarteonline.com/sierras-de-cinta/574-sierra-de-cinta-hbs-355-c-8436552933847.html
it looks like they also have blades. the website isn’t available in english… i don’t speak or read the language, but they might have a manual available.good luck
barry
hi John,
i would be cautious about pinching more set out of the saw. if anything, i’d suggest using the hammer and punch to add more set and then proceed to use Paul’s double hammer method of removing set using VERY light taps on both sides of the plate, test and repeat.
if you flatten the teeth it will be hard to tell the righties from the lefties and you risk breaking teeth by treating a former left as a right.
since you’re getting occasional straight cuts, it may be technique or funky grain that’s pulling the saw off course, but the saw dragging suggests more set
regards
barry
hi Terry,
what sort of issues are you having?
Paul has made a couple of videos on sharpening and setting up a #80 scraper. i have followed his guidance when sharpening my veritas #80 as well as my stanley #85 and i get very nice results
the videos are in the tools and techniques section of the video library
regards
barry
hi Roberto
put a box (chair, stack of wood…..whatever works) under it while you clamp it in the vise, perpendicular to the bench
regards
Barry
hi joshua,
if you have a digital caliper (sometimes on sale at harbor freight for $10), measure the diameter of the arms that you have. a 3 foot stick of 1/4”-1/2” cold rolled steel rod is usually less than $10 at home depot, or available from mcmaster carr +shipping. it’s easy to cut and file and you will have more than enough for longer arms. if you want tighter tolerance on the rods, or need metric, get drill rod from mcmaster carr, or wherever you can source it locally. it comes un hardened so it is easy to cut and file
good luck
barry
if that url doesn’t work search ‘Liyafy 2 Inch Butt Hinges for Cupboard Cabinet Home Furniture Hardware Door Folding Butt Hinge Copper Tone 4 Pcs’
Barry
Hi Joost,
I used these for a batch of dovetail boxes that i made for gifts, they worked fine.
regards
Barry
hi Roberto
i have repaired a couple of flattop acoustic guitars that got sat on (not perfect, but playable)
stewmac.com has lots of guitarmaking supplies and books.there is this book on classical guitar building:
hope this helps
Barry
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This reply was modified 11 months, 1 week ago by
