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Hi, @Selva, I just noticed that, too. I generally like all the recent changes, especially login.
For now, you can go to the, well idk what we call it, “category” page for each project, e.g.:
and all the vids of the project are listed there.
One way to get there is to click the project name linked at the top of the intro page.
I agree with the others’ suggestions, I’ll add:
The saw work looks pretty good; I’d say it’s losing the knifewalls on the chisel work that’s your biggest issue there.
I’ve seen many machine-made dovetailed drawers for kitchens and furniture that look a lot like your picture.
Glue + sawdust to fill the gaps. In one of Paul’s videos, even he had to use a wedge to repair a miss-cut dovetail. (I believe it was the video of the half-blind drawer for the workbench add-ons series)
After glue-up, I’m often amazed at how much better the joints look after using the chisel and plane to clean up the joint.
@5ivestring There are banjo players in Columbia? Cool 🙂
I have that saw, I love it.
Actually — I’m not quick to convert from mm 🙂 — I just realized 50mm is ~2 inches, so what I was saying above might not be all that relevant to you. You should be able to expel the waste okay if it’s only 50mm I’d think. Keeping it low in the vise is probably useful.
I’ve wanted to resaw 13/16″ material, but haven’t found the guts yet. Please let us know how it goes, and best luck.
No worries. I think the point that hasn’t been mentioned yet is this: the reason I’ve seen for smaller tpi being suggested for resawing, is that as the saw goes through the wood, it’s picking up waste, and in a resawing cut it’s picking up more waste quicker than in other types of cuts (I think this is one reason he asked about the width). And with higher tpi saws there isn’t enough room between the teeth to collect all the waste, so they get clogged up quickly. A wider spacing between the teeth allows for more waste to be extracted without clogging up as quickly. This will be the same issue with handsaws and bandsaws.
I think you’re confusing thickness and width. When resawing we reduce the thickness by cutting through the endgrain across the whole width of the board, that is, parallel to the faces of the board. It’s just semantics; we could also saw through the endgrain parallel to the edges to reduce the width. This is something I’ve done a lot, and is much easier than resawing to reduce thickness.
Wow, you’re braver and more ambitious than I am (isn’t Wenge expensive?). I believe Paul would resaw on the bandsaw. I haven’t even attempted resawing yet for this reason. Hope someone can give you nice answers, I’ll be listening. Thanks.
P.S. from what I’ve read, 10 tpi might be too fine, since people say that you need big gullets for resawing, because you’re pulling out so much waste. Best luck.
Your 2nd one definitely looks better. I bet you can make it look real nice by gluing plugs and sawdust in the gaps, and then further paring down the pins and tails with a sharp chisel. Even Paul had to repair a dovetail with a wedge in one video (I think the workbench drawer?). Not sure if you made these already, you may have, but I found Paul’s dovetail boxes and dovetail caddy series very instructive and fulfilling.
I agree with all the others’ advice above. The only other thing I can think of is board thickness. It’s hard to tell from the pictures, but what thickness is the wood you’re using? It looks like you’re using 1-by (about 3/4″ thick) material. The boxes in the videos I mentioned above and the keepsake box all call for around 1/2″ thick or less boards. It’s easier to cut good dovetails on the smaller stock, around 1/2″ or less.
Do you have a honing guide? I’d love to freehand sharpen as well as Paul, and one day I’ll get there, but I have to use a honing guide to properly sharpen my blades.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by ted clawton.
@btyreman I can say 2 months later after almost daily use, washing and drying, that the inlay is holding up very well. Maybe I’ll respond at 12 months if I remember. The glue-to-wood ratio of the inlay itself is very high, so maybe that’s a factor. I will say, though, that I got a couple of cracks not related to the inlay. One is from where I didn’t fit the haunch of the tenon carefully enough and it splayed out the groove on the end piece a bit; the second is also on one of the end pieces, and I’m not sure why it formed. Neither is very serious, and both appear to be stable (i.e. not growing or reducing the functionality of the piece).
- This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by ted clawton.
@ed thank you for your kind words. I did indeed use a knife to mark a new line at the lowest point, and the 2nd shoulder was better than the first, just still not what I’d hoped for … still learning
@btyreman at first I wondered if the inlay would weaken the joint, and I guess it does at least some, I just don’t know how much. I didn’t even think about the inlay cracking or coming loose, I’ll have to watch for that. Like you say, at least it was fun to try Paul’s geometric inlay on a real project.
I realize the number of posts, pictures, and description aren’t in proportion with the weightiness or interestingness of the project, but I hope you don’t mind. A couple of final pictures of the tongues.
Thanks to Paul and crew for all of your products. I feel very lucky to have found Paul before I got too deep into the often misguided advice you find from non-Masters out there on the internet.
Some of the tongues look pretty good, some not as much, but I’m fine with the way it turned out.
You can see in “16” that I had to plug a hole. I let myself go too fast again, and had a blow out with the router; after that I went from both sides like I knew I should anyway.
Again, being a new woodworker, it didn’t even occur to me beforehand that the inlay housing would be about half across the grain and about half with the grain. You can see the plugged hole came from chipping out a piece going with the grain. I’m learning things that will seem obvious with experience 🙂 …
You may notice that the bottom end piece has some pretty gnarly grain. It looks pretty, but it taught me to be even more careful about selection and placement of pieces.
In the picture of the bottom you can see the shoulder lines certainly aren’t ideal, but good enough I guess — again, this is my first, and a learning project.
In the picture of the tenons, the one on the right is still a little wet in the corner, that’s not a gap. You can see I have lots of gaps, but that’s not one of them 🙂
The other tenon shot is the top.